I am attempting to help my brother fix his 97 accord. The car has ran flawlessly since he inherited it about 6 months ago. He drove it to the store one day, came out of the store, and it will not crank over. After towing it home, he called me. I noticed the D4 light would flash when turning the key on, so I pulled the codes, and got P1758 and P0758, both referring to the Lock Up Solenoid/wiring. I searched onlin and found a procedure to check the P1758 code. We do not have any shorts to power at the PCM between B4 and A9/A22. The solenoid resistance at the PCM is 16 ohms between B4 and A9/A22. When the solenoid is disconnected, there is no continuity between B4 and A9/A22 on the PCM. When we measure resistance between the lock up solenoid and ground, we are getting 13.6 ohms. We have also checked to solenoids with 12 volts as some suggested, and the solenoids do click, however one is much more audible then the others. The only other thing I notice that I am not sure is normal, is when we turn the ignition on, the two lower (I believe these are shift solenoids) click. If we turn the key off and back on, we can hear the lower two solenoids audibly click, but nothing from the other two. While I would venture to say, the Lock up solenoid is bad, I am wondering if anyone has any other suggestions. Everything I read talk about the car still running, but a check engine light would be on and have shifting symptoms, but according to my brother, he never had any of these symptoms.
Please offer any suggestions you may have.
Thank you.

 

The transmission codes may be a red herring, and should not prevent engine turning over in any case. Sometimes electrical problems can cause false codes.

I'm assuming from your description that starter does not engage and turn engine over. Please clarify. Do you hear even a loud click from starter?

When you first turn key to ON, does Check Engine Light, Oil Pressure, Alt lights come on? If not, the keyswitch Assy (electrical part) is likely faulty.

Suggest first removing and cleaning the battery cable terminals and tightening securely.

good luck

 

You are correct in assuming the starter does not engage and the engine does not turn over. I am going to say we do not hear a loud click from the starter. The only clicks (2 quick in a row) that we hear, are coming from the solenoids on the lower front of the transmission. We do get all the check lights when we turn the key on, so I am sure it is not that portion of the ignition system. I will check the battery cables and maybe even pull the starter and have it tested. I went straight to the codes I could pull from the system once the battery voltage was tested, but we have not checked the starter. We will do that and get back to you. Thank you

 

I have a couple of questions for you, does the lights on the dash dim out when you attempt to start the car? Have you checked for power to the starter? I agree wit texas to check and clean battery cables/posts.

 

The lights do not dim when you try to start and the starter solenoid is not clicking. I checked voltage at the starter and it was good, and ignition signal voltage was good. We jumped the starter in the car and got nothing. I removed the starter and bench tested it, and it started working... Reinstalled (thanks Dad) and tried and it started 3 times, and then nothing. This time we can tap on the solenoid and get the unit to start, so a new starter will be installed today. Thank you for getting me back on the right track for the no start. Once I get the starter in, we will run it and see if we get any codes and will let you know. I have a feeling this was the only issue as he said the check engine light was not on prior to this no start issue.
Thanks again for your help.

 

Good work!

Hopefully the P0740 is history. It's a problematic code that indicates a hydraulic fault that is usually difficult to fix. It is set when torque converter fails to lockup and TCU senses slippage between wheels and engine (torque converter slippage). Code will only set when speed exceeds 55 mph.

good luck