No Power to A/C Compressor
When you turn on the a/c with the engine running, do both fans on the radiator turn on immediately?
Not sure if you tried this, but try swapping the a/c compressor relay with an identical relay in the engine bay fuse box (maybe the defroster relay) and see if the a/c compressor works.
Not sure if you tried this, but try swapping the a/c compressor relay with an identical relay in the engine bay fuse box (maybe the defroster relay) and see if the a/c compressor works.
When you turn on the a/c with the engine running, do both fans on the radiator turn on immediately?
Not sure if you tried this, but try swapping the a/c compressor relay with an identical relay in the engine bay fuse box (maybe the defroster relay) and see if the a/c compressor works.
Not sure if you tried this, but try swapping the a/c compressor relay with an identical relay in the engine bay fuse box (maybe the defroster relay) and see if the a/c compressor works.
Yes I did. When I use a jumper at the relay, I get power at the connector, so I know the circuit is good. I went as far as jumping it with the car running, connected to the compressor, and the clutch engaged. So I'm going to either take apart the relay and see if the contacts have a lot of carbon build up. I tested the relay by powering up the control side and checking continuity on the other side, and it checked out, but once plugged in, no power was getting sent to the clutch. Maybe I'm getting confused and thinking the control side is working when it's not (I'm also leery of testing the ground side and frying the PCM). So, I'll remove the cover and see it activate with my own eyes! lol! I'll have to wait for my son to return later today.
Last edited by Raymond Garcia; Aug 28, 2024 at 09:44 AM.
Since you jumped the power side of the relay socket and the compressor worked, then you'll need to troubleshoot the control side. The relay is almost ruled out, because you swapped relays and still have the same problem. You can verify the relay by placing the compressor relay into an identical relay location in that fuse box (blower motor, etc.). Then turn on the blower motor to see if the compressor relay run the blower motor.
To test the control side, your volt meter is a safe tool to use on the voltage DC setting or the resistance setting to protect the PCM. Do not use the current setting on the volt meter. The control side has two pins. Figure out which pin is the 12V power using the DC volts on your meter, then use resistance/continutiy to ground to see if the PCM is commanding the relay by grounding the non-12V control pin.
To test the control side, your volt meter is a safe tool to use on the voltage DC setting or the resistance setting to protect the PCM. Do not use the current setting on the volt meter. The control side has two pins. Figure out which pin is the 12V power using the DC volts on your meter, then use resistance/continutiy to ground to see if the PCM is commanding the relay by grounding the non-12V control pin.
Since you jumped the power side of the relay socket and the compressor worked, then you'll need to troubleshoot the control side. The relay is almost ruled out, because you swapped relays and still have the same problem. You can verify the relay by placing the compressor relay into an identical relay location in that fuse box (blower motor, etc.). Then turn on the blower motor to see if the compressor relay run the blower motor.
To test the control side, your volt meter is a safe tool to use on the voltage DC setting or the resistance setting to protect the PCM. Do not use the current setting on the volt meter. The control side has two pins. Figure out which pin is the 12V power using the DC volts on your meter, then use resistance/continutiy to ground to see if the PCM is commanding the relay by grounding the non-12V control pin.
To test the control side, your volt meter is a safe tool to use on the voltage DC setting or the resistance setting to protect the PCM. Do not use the current setting on the volt meter. The control side has two pins. Figure out which pin is the 12V power using the DC volts on your meter, then use resistance/continutiy to ground to see if the PCM is commanding the relay by grounding the non-12V control pin.
I'm wondering if the pressure switch is the culprit after all. I even gave the system extra charge (with compressed air) to get the pressure switch something to work with. I'd be nice getting this working before winter! lol!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bongjoonho
General Tech Help
5
Jan 7, 2021 08:28 PM
Shooter
General Tech Help
8
Jul 23, 2011 07:57 AM



