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Old May 4, 2014 | 11:06 PM
  #11  
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Shorting the connector and having the CEL remain turned on and not blinking means that no codes are stored on the engine computer.

I would probably pick up a used coil and igniter from an equivalent accord at u-pull-it junkyard. I'd install the replacement coil, and see if the the car starts. If not, replace igniter and try starting the car.

This is a good video on how to test coil vs igniter. This Subaru is setup a bit different than the accord. Your car only has one control wire.


Here is an ericthecarguy video on how to do this type of testing. This testing looks like it is done on an early 90s accord.

 
Old May 5, 2014 | 10:46 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
Shorting the connector and having the CEL remain turned on and not blinking means that no codes are stored on the engine computer.

I would probably pick up a used coil and igniter from an equivalent accord at u-pull-it junkyard. I'd install the replacement coil, and see if the the car starts. If not, replace igniter and try starting the car.

This is a good video on how to test coil vs igniter. This Subaru is setup a bit different than the accord. Your car only has one control wire.

How to troubleshoot a no spark condition with a test light (Subaru) - YouTube

Here is an ericthecarguy video on how to do this type of testing. This testing looks like it is done on an early 90s accord.

No Spark Diagnosis (Honda) - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube
Thanks for the response!

I had already watched the ErictheCarGuy video but the Subaru one was good, although I didn't understand some of what he was talking about! lol

I have tried the old coil, a brand new coil, and a second brand new coil. I'm pretty confident the coil isn't the issue. BTW, my coil is outside the distributor.

Right now, I'm probably going to replace the ignition control module. I noticed ErictheCarGuy also mentioned using a OEM ICM as did one of the links I posted yesterday. Getting a new NEC ICM from the local Honda dealership is going to be pretty expensive. How important do you feel the brand name is? How confident would you be in a used one from the junkyard? I can get a new Duralast, BMD, Wells, or Delphi ignition control module from the local auto parts stores for about the same as a used one from a junkyard, although I could probably get a NEC or HITACHI ICM (which are the two recommanded OEM brands) from the junkyard.
 
Old May 5, 2014 | 11:19 AM
  #13  
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You shouldn't jump to a failed ECU until you put a good fuse in that backup slot. Here's what can happen...

Without that fuse, every time you switch the key OFF, the ECU loses all power & clears it's memory. That can explain why you don't get any error codes.
 
Old May 5, 2014 | 03:33 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by JimBlake
You shouldn't jump to a failed ECU until you put a good fuse in that backup slot. Here's what can happen...

Without that fuse, every time you switch the key OFF, the ECU loses all power & clears it's memory. That can explain why you don't get any error codes.
Ok, I'll get a fuse in there.

That brings up another question that arises from something PAhonda said. If there are no codes in the ECU memory, wouldn't the CEL go off and then do nothing as opposed to remaining on and not blinking?
 
Old May 5, 2014 | 04:23 PM
  #15  
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I hope I can write this so it makes sense.
As I remember it, the system behaves like this...

When you connect the jumper on the SCS connector, it either flashes out the error code (long-flash = 10 & short-flash = 1) or the CEL stays lit continuously when there are no codes.

The shop manual says that if the CEL lights up while running the engine (WITHOUT a jumper on the SCS connector)... AND THEN... the CEL lights up solid when you put in that jumper; that means the ECU is bad.

However, without a fuse in the back-up slot, the ECU memory is erased when you turn off the key.
My own interpretation...
Since most people switch off the key, then connect the jumper, THEN turn the key back on; that process will erase the memory of the error code(s) before you can read them.

So...
You can run the car until you get the CEL to come on. Then pull over & park, but leave the engine running. Now connect the jumper on the SCS plug while the engine is still running. That way you don't erase the codes. Or better yet, just replace the fuse that belongs in the back-up slot.
 
Old May 7, 2014 | 01:50 PM
  #16  
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An update, finally got my car started. Turns out it was the ignition control module. I'm a bit confused about why it was working before the timing belt broke but not after, but at least it's running now!

Thanks for all the help!
 
Old May 9, 2014 | 03:53 PM
  #17  
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It was a long drawn out process. Between taking the cylinder head off, waiting for parts, replacing the head, numerous 2 hour round trips from my house to where the car broke down, and only being able to work on it on weekends, I've been without my car for almost 2 months! I finally have it running. I haven't driven very far and I'm still having some minor issues (fixed an antifreeze leak today and something is going on with the power steering pump), but it's running and driveable!

I couldn't have done this job without using the resources at alldatadiy.com. I heartily recommend getting a subscription at alldata, it gave me step by step directions on removing the head.

I also couldn't have done this job without the help of many members here. My heartfelt thanks to all of you for all your help!
 
Old May 10, 2014 | 10:27 AM
  #18  
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Glad to hear that you have is going again

Thanks for the follow up, too many times we never know the end of the story.
 
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