welli have bee on here for only a day and i havn't posted anything so far. i had the issue were the car wouldn't start.
its a 91 honda accord wagon lx 200,000 miles.i diagnosed the car and it had fuel and everything else but spark. it said it could be the coil, the igniter, and the main relay. i replaced the igniter, i had the coil checked and the relay was checked and resoilderd. i clean the plugs and i don't know whats going on with the car. any one have any advice that i might have missed in the post that i read

 

how was the coil checked?

 

The main relay has to do with fuel, so it shouldn't be causing the problem. Is the starting problem intermittent?

When the problem is happening, check for 12V at the yel/blk wire going to the distributor with the key in the II (on) position. If you have 12V, then the ignition switch is ok.

There is a writeup in the DIY section on how to determine if the coil or the ignitor is bad.

 

i took it out and took it to autozone and they cheacked it for me. the problem was all of a sudden it just won't start at all.


i wanted to replace the rotor and the cap. but is there any way to test them before i replace them.

 

You can take off the cap and look at the contacts inside. There is no real test you can do for the cap/rotor.

The cap/rotor are maintenance items, so they should be replaced at the proper interval.

 

the rotor looks all dry and the cap seems to have little craks that look more like scratches but they are only from the inside. not the out side. but the car doesn't give any signs or life it doesn't even try to turn on. it will just crank and crank.

do you guys think the old dizzy cap and rotor are bad and causing the problem

 

what appears to be little cracks might just be black lines running up the side, this is usually an indication of the rotor arcing, or it's possible that the hairline cracks are visible inside and not oustide, either way, based on your description I would replace both of them and test for power to the yellow/black wire as mentioned

 

i tested it on and it has power when the key is turned. and for the cracks ill take a pic. because the look more like cracks

 

the coil should be resistance checked as well. 99% of the time no spark = bad coil and/or bad ignitor.

 

the coil was tested for resistance and it was fine. i tested the wires that lead to theigniter and the coil and they have power when the key is turned. im going to replace the cap and rotor hopfully tomorow and ill let you know what happens