Hello everyone,

First time poster, too! I have a strange problem...

I have a 2006 Honda Accord Coupe EXL with Navigation. I live in Minneapolis, so it is starting to get pretty cold right about now. About 5 days ago, I turned on the heat (I have driver's side and passenger side climate control, in case that is important), and it didn't turn on for a couple minutes, but when it did, it went straight to the defrost vents, when it's supposed to blow hot air right at me. I thought that was strange. So, I tried to adjust the heat and fan via the touchscreen AC screen, and it switched to blowing out the correct vents. The funny thing is that if I turn it down all the way to the 'low' setting for air conditioning, it will switch to the correct vents.

Anyway, today, everything stopped working. No heat or AC blowing out of ANY vents. Any ideas? I am a bit of a novice, so please bear with me. I don't usually work on cars, but I am a broke college student. I was hoping someone had some ideas. I saw online that the blower resistor was a popular part to replace if my car stops blowing air, but that doesn't account for the weird vent issues...right? Anybody hear of this issue? Otherwise, that car is amazing. I have 120,000 miles on it, and it still runs like a champ!

Thanks for listening. I hope someone can help! To be transparent, I posted this in different forums, because I'm super cold, and haven't heard back from anyone.

 

See this thread to retrieve any stored HVAC trouble codes.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-code-s-34589/

Then see this thread regarding info. on the power transistor. Your car uses a power transistor instead of just the resistor like earlier Hondas.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...blowing-60288/

 

Thank you so much! So, I received the 'N' Code, which is a problem in the blower motor circuit. I already know it's not the power transistor since I stupidly bought one. I guess I'll try the blower motor test that you linked to. Is there any other part of the blower motor circuit that might be bad that I can test other than the transistor and the blower motor itself?

Again, thank you so much for your reply. I was afraid it was some weird computer thing that would have cost me a ton of money. I mean, it still might, but this gives me home. This forum is amazing!

 

The transistor is controlled the by the HVAC unit, so that is a possibility.

Instead of throwing parts, there are some simple tests to try.

If you know how to test for voltage and resistance, you can do some basic tests to start narrowing down the problem. The blower motor will have two wires. One wire has 12V when the key is in the II position. The other wire will have the resistance to ground change as you adjust the blower speed.

There is also the caveman test, where you hit the blower motor with the car turned on to see if it turns on.

 

Haha, thanks. I tried the 'easy way to test interior fan blower motor works' with a jumper wire, that redbull-1 suggested in his post, and the blower motor did not turn on, so I'm guessing that's it? Unless there's something else I'm forgetting.

Thank you again for all your help. I'm learning a lot! What a great forum!

 

1. Did you check the fuses first before my test (under-dash Fuse no. 30 (7.5A) and under-hood Fuse no. 21 (40A)? Also, the ignition needs to be turned ON.

2. If the fuses are good, then you could always check a different way to make sure it is a faulty blower motor before trying to replace the motor.

To do that, apply direct battery power (+) and ground (-) to the motor. Wht/Blu wire is for power (+) and Blk wire is for ground (-) on the blower motor's white colored 2-pin connector. You can use long speaker wires from the car battery for power (+), ground can be from car's body or battery. If you have a portable 12 volt battery such as a lantern battery or other battery, that would work too.

 

I checked the fuses and they were A-OK, and while doing the jumper wire test you suggested, I turned the ignition on. I think I might have smelled some weird electrical burning smell when I did it, but I think that was just in my mind. It was only connected for a minute like that.

Also, I don't have enough wire (speaker wire or other) to hook up the blower motor straight to the battery. I don't have a lantern battery, either.

Thanks! Anything else I could check? I just find it weird that the air blew out of the wrong vents when blowing hot (or hotter) air on the 'auto' setting, and the right vents on the cold air setting. That's why I was super worried it was some super weird issue. But, I don't know much about cars, so that's why I deferred to you guys!

Thanks again! The blower motor will be waiting for me at 10am at Auto Zone. $75.

 

If you have a voltmeter, you can check for battery power on Wht/Blu wire of the blower motor connector. Voltmeter's red lead to the Wht/Blu wire and voltmeter's black lead to body ground.

This would be done with the ignition ON.

 

Hi everyone, I just wanted to update everyone on this issue. It was definitely the blower motor. Super quick and easy. Thanks to redbull-1 and PAHonda, and this awesome forum, my car is fixed! Thank you for all the help and follow-up! This forum is awesome!

 

Thanks for coming back and reporting the resolution.