First off, let me say that I love this forum. You guys have all the knowledge of mechanics and I don't have to drop 100 dollars to find out what could be plaguing my car.

So as someone who is terrible with cars, I thank you.

Running into a very odd issue that seems to only be effecting the starting of my car.

About three weeks ago I went to start my car on my way to work and the car made a noise like it was drained on power and then I could only hear the starter clicking (Which is brand new, by the way, replaced in July)

The weird thing was that when I wasn't turning the ignition, the headlights and car horn were strong. I got a jump and drove to work that day. Didn't have any problems the rest of the day.

I took the car to O'Reilly's and they hooked up the battery reader to my battery while it was still in my car. He said the battery was near dead and he would have to charge it and tell me if I had a bad cell in about an hour.

When I came back, he said that once he got my battery out of the car and hooked it up in the store, it read that the battery was almost a full charge. He told me that he thinks my terminals weren't on tight enough and that is why it had trouble starting that day and why the charge read it as dead when it was hooked to my car but not when it was in the store.

They tested the battery on full charge and said the battery was good (New in April) and then tested my alternator and said that was good too (New in June)

I drove it fine for 3 days after that, but have had the same issue happen since my terminals were tightened. It happened once a week for the three weeks following that, but now I've had trouble starting the car every day for the last three.

The weird thing is that when I try and turn the car over now, it makes the power down noise and then goes into the starter clicking, but if I keep trying to turn the ignition and hold it for a good 10-15 seconds, it starts right up and then runs fine.

I had a friend tell me he thought it was the ignition switch, but that wouldn't be the problem if it could be solved by a jump right? I also don't have issues with the car dying as I drive like you might expect if the ignition switch was fluking out...it's only when I start the car.

Battery, alternator, starter and positive terminal are all brand new...less than 6 months. The negative terminal isn't new, but it's clean.

I'm really curious what this might be and don't want to throw money at a diagnosis without first getting an idea of what this problem sounds like.

As always, any help is greatly appreciated!

 

You may have an issue with corrosion of the battery cables. Look for splits in the insulation, any signs of white or green crust on them as well. Check that the cables are well cleaned and connections are tight on both ends from battery to ground as well as from battery to starter motor. Closely examine the area where the cables meet up with the connectors for loose fitment or excess wear. Electrics are most frustrating, so be prepared for plenty of other troubleshooting to fix this issue. Good Hunting...

 

Check condition of wires and connections to starter since it was replaced recently.

If good, the starter may be defective despite it's recent replacement.

good luck

 

What does the negative cable do in regards to starting the car? Because the negative cable is clean, but it's old and there looks to be some wire exposed where it meets with the terminal.

As for the starter connections, I will check into those. Is it possible for it to be a starter problem though if I hear it clicking when the car doesn't start?

Thank you!

Bobby

 

Negative cable supplys ground return path for starting current. Both positive and negative cables should be clean and securely connected. A bit of exposed bare wire at the connector is not a problem.

Clicking of starter is a symptom of bad starter solenoid, if the starter is getting good starting current through the positive and negative wires.

Are you holding the keyswitch in Start position or changing from On to Start to get the starter to "catch" and start the engine?

good luck

 

It will only start if I hold the keyswitch in start position. After about 8-10 seconds it will go from a power down sound to a clicking to starting.

If I go from on to start, it won't start.

 

Suggest removing starter, check at auto parts store, and replace as indicated.

good luck

 

Hi guys,

Just wanted to update. Turns out it was as simple as the battery being fried. Don't know how the battery test originally missed it, but it was a bad cell. Replaced and running.

Thank you!