That's the wrong part number.

Duralast/Temperature Switch (TU198) | AutoZone.com

The Honda part number should be 37773-PT0-004, which should be Duralast SW546.

Duralast/Cooling Fan Switch - Radiator (SW546) | 1994 Honda Accord EX 4 Cylinders 2.2L MFI VTEC | AutoZone.com

 

You bought temperature sensor B and installed it into the temperature sensor A spot.

Temperature sensor B closes the circuit at 223 F. Temperature sensor A closed at 200 F.

That is why your car is overheating. Get the part number that Red-Bull posted. It will turn on the fans at the proper temperature.

 

It is possible your thermoswitch A connector has a fault that may not be obvious (broken wire near connector or damaged pin).

good luck

 

Redbull, the part you gave me says it does not fit my application. Nor does it look anything like the OEM plug that I removed from the thermo housing. Are you sure that is it?

What about this one?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...52941_32043_0_

 

That one is Honda part #37760-P00-003, which is listed for the 1995, 1996 LX, EX, etc. and is Thermoswitch A and goes in the same location as Honda part number 37773-PT0-004 for the 1994 LX, EX. Both are thermoswitch A.

If the OEM connector in your car plugs into Duralast TU197, it should work. Maybe your car is a 1995, 1996 or had some parts/wire/etc. swapped? Honda part # 37760-P00-003 is the thermoswitch A I bought from my previous 1995 Accord EX.

Edit: I see now, your public profile shows you own a 1994 LX, 5-speed; however, in one of your other posts you said you have a 1996 now. You may want to change that or add it to your signature. For sure, Duralast TU197 (Honda part number 37760-P00-003) is the correct part for your 1996.

 

When I get back to work I'll head to autozone and swap out my tu198 for a tu197.

And yes, I'm glad you noticed, I need to change my sig, I had a 94 accord lx when I joined years ago, I now own a 96 accord lx.

I'll get back to you guys when I get the other sensor.

 

Turns out I was wrong.. It is the TU197 sensor that's in the car.

I'm completely out of guesses of what could be wrong with this car..

 

I'm going to try one last thing before I take it to a shop..

Redbull, you seem to be the most knowledgeable about the cooling system, what technique do you use to bleed the system?

 

I wouldn't say I'm the most knowledgeable about the cooling system, it's just that I have worked on some older and newer Accords, in addition to other makes of cars and researched the subject before.

In post # 6 of this thread is how I generally bleed the system.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ouncing-36202/

From my own experience, if I don't raise the idle some by revving the car a bit, it takes longer and sometimes a lot of air is still in the system. It usually takes quite a bit to get almost all the air out.

But, even at that, I still check (or tell the person I did it for to check) the reservoir level for the next few days and top off as necessary, as sometimes there are few small remaining air pockets that were in the system that would finally come out under normal driving. A couple of years ago, I bought the Lisle No-Spill funnel to make it a little easier, it seems to get more air out and faster from my experience (it is not a necessary tool; but, I like it).

I also attached the bleeding instructions from the owner's manual (filling and bleeding starts at step #6 in the owner's manual) and service manual for your car. The owner's manual and service manual differ in instructions regarding leaving on of off the radiator cap; but, it doesn't make a big deal, as even if you put the cap on, it shouldn't be all the way tight while purging.

Your problem kind of sounds like it is sensor related or something else though. But, it won't hurt to try to see if more air is still in the system. Good luck.

 

So I did everything as stated and flushed the system for a second time.

Everything is properly bled and whatnot.

Anything else you could guess to be wrong with it?

I had my suspicions that it was the gauge but used an aftermarket gauge to find out that my oem gauge works fine.