I ran into the same thing a couple years ago. A new cannister shut valve took care of it, and the code never came back. I forgot where I found the part online, but it was ~$50.

The reason some places recommend replacing the cannister is because the valve attaches to the cannister's threaded inserts and it's almost impossible to get the screws out. One of the inserts can be drilled out and then just put a nut and bolt in its place. The shut valve has an O-ring that should provide an airtight seal w/ the one side attached. But to be sure I wrapped a giant ty-wrap around the cannister too. Somewhat cheesy, I know, but it's fine so far.

 

I had the same problem few years back on my 1999 Accord it was the shut off valve that took care of it. Its pretty easy to replace it your self. It cost me around $75 for the valve.

 

The vent-shut valve is #8 in that picture; I'm not real surewhat #9 is. Energize the valve directly with the battery - it should click & open/close. Mine didn't even click at all. About 5 years ago it cost me about $50 from manhonda.com.

The other things (7 & 14) are potential failures, too. Unless you want to randomlyreplace 12 different things for a couple hundred bucks, you should verify that something's actuallyfailed.

 

the p1457 code does not affect the running of thr car, but it will set the code so you won't be able to get a sticker, if you don't mind the light staying on, and you need to pass emissions, fill the tank full of case, clear the code, and drive car for about 10 miles, this way you can get a sticker, the light will come back on when the fuel is below 3/4 tank, but atleast it will buy you a year to fix it, or not

 

Hi, JimBlake. I've searched a while for the P1457 and ordered the #7 and #8. These parts are on the way. Would you please explain how to energize the valve directly? After a lot search work, Maybe I can do it myself.

 

Just apply battery voltage directly to the solenoid. If you want to do that without removing the valve, just get some wire long enough to reach from your battery to wherever the valve is.

 

Thanks for the post from here that I got my 1998 honda accord fixed.
Thanks JimBlake your posts help me a lot!
My car with the checking engine light, code is 1475.
I have someone replaced the shut vent valve first,(cost $50+$100 ) but still CEL on.
Repairing store checked it again and they said need to replace 3 parts: fuel pressure sensor, two-way valve with the bypass solenoid. Need about another $400.
I just bought only the solenoid from online, including tax and shipping, about $95.
When I replace it, it's a little bit hard to separate the solenoid from the two-way vale. So I saw those two washers off finally using about 20 minutes. Other parts very easy!
After the fix, now it's about 200 miles already and everything is good, no CEL . ( Normally it will come back about 20- 90 miles if not fixed) During I unplug those hoses on the two-way valve, I found oil( gas) drops inside it. ( I think it's getting from the tank side hose, and since the solenoid didn't working, so its there.) I see no crack or leak out side the two-way valve , it's plastic and not easy broken. I press my finger on the holes of it and blew air into it, seemed working good. So I think its good. If not working, I will replace pressure sensor next, and then last one will be the two-way valve.

For those who have the same EVAP system leak, P1457 code, my suggestion :
First, check those hoses under the car, unplug them one by one, see if something abnormal. Or gas smell. (Since from tank side hose, gas will come into the EVAP system, including those vales) It's very easy to do that.
Second,
following the TBS, replace the rusted solenoid if you see its rusted. Also you can test them using JimBlake and others' posts. For me I used $40 have someone smoked the car, narrow the parts to replace. With those results, you can choose those electronic things to replace(for the salt snow area pl). In my case, no need to replace the two-way valve.
Hope everyone good luck!

 

O.p., were you able to get the solenoid off? I don't see much hope in reaching the upper bolt, even if I manage to remove the lower bolt. Can anyone guide me very specifically to the bolt to remove the whole canister? If I can get that off I have a shot at getting the solenoid off and replaced. Thanks.

 

I helped out a friend with the same code and had to take out the whole canister. Take a close look at the setup, because it is pretty obvious how to remove.

From memory: You need to unplug the electrical connectors going to the components bolted to the canister. There was maybe one or two hoses that had to be removed. There is only one bolt that holds the canister to the car. The other end of the canister slides into a slot to secure the other end.

 

I took my car to shop today and had it smoke tested. I was told I needed to replace the 2way valve and the solenoid. 2002 honda accord dx 2.3l. are these 2 ebay parts the 2way valve and the solenoid?

ebay.com/itm/130945280803?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1438.l2649

ebay.com/itm/390625337939?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1438.l2649