My wife's 98 Accord has approx 220k miles. Two months ago the ignition was failing, same as turning off the key, only while driving. I tried pulling codes but nothing. I felt strongly the problem was the Ignition control module (ICM). I pulled the Hitachi ICM and had it tested. It failed so I replaced it with one from O'Reilly, specifically for that model, but not an OEM Hitachi. After installing the unit it didn't run smoothly but it ran, often cutting out at lower rpm, especially when cold. This lasted for 2 months and then quit completely leaving her along the side of the road, but it would restart.

I took the new unit back to OReilly and they replaced it. The 2nd non OEM unit ran perfectly for 2 days then failed 2 times leaving her along the side of the road, but she got home and just as she did it failed again. I pulled codes and a P0130 (O2 sensor issue displayed). I doubt seriously this is the problem as when they fail generally they don't stall the motor.

So I'm ready to take the new, new ICM back to OReilly for testing. I'm suspecting it's the ICM again but what's the possibility of a second failure so soon? Possible but not highly probable.

Any ideas?

 

Not from personal experience, but I've heard that a failing coil can damage the ICM. The job of the ICM is a kind of isolation-amplifier to prevent voltage spikes from the coil from getting back & frying the ECM.

So maybe the coil is going bad in a particularly strange way, or the non-OEM ignitor is less "robust" than it should be???

 

Agree w/ Jim B.

Unless, new plugs and wires are already installed, I would replace these. I had a case of ICM damage due to bad plugs/wires when my daughter was driving my 94EX.

good luck

 

I replaced the plugs and wires 2 months ago when I replaced the ICM. Thanks for the suggestion however.

 

I've not heard of a failing coil taking out the ICM. I'll take the coil in for a check. I appreciate the tip. There definitely is something foul going on and it's hard to believe that two ICMs have gone bad so fast. I'll let you know what happens.

 

Here's an update. I took the ICM back to the store for testing and it tested good. Looking at the coil I noticed a questionable spot on the point the inserts into the dist cap so I replaced it. I also replaced the dist cap just to be on the safe side. I noticed that the spring from the old distributor cap was missing. This spring ensures good contact from the tip of the coil to the dist cap. Perhaps I lost it 2 months ago when I replaced the ICM?

After replacing these items the problem did not disappear and remains with the same symptoms. Since I don't drive the car my best guess is still electrics (ignition) as it seems to shut down immediately and sometimes will catch (left in 5th) will driving. Other times the car is pulled over to the side and will sometimes restart. This symptom still sounds like ignition and not fuel.

So I'm baffled at this point. I'm thinking that the ignition pickup mechanism may be flaky but I think that item can't be ordered separately. I'll start looking.

Any other ideas?

 

The final chapter in this mystery is that the main relay module under the dash failed. I took it apart and saw where the solder was compromised. I resoldered it and the problem was fixed, but only for a couple days and all previous symptoms returned. I removed the relay module and saw where the solder was again compromised so I concluded it must be getting very hot. I replaced the main relay module and it's now been over 50k miles w/o incident.

By the way this vehicle has now clocked 240k miles and it seems it will never stop. There are no leaks anywhere, ops I forgot while she had the car in Salt Lake City the alternator went south taking the battery with it. So a new alternator and battery, but still 220k on the alternator isn't bad. I've got a Bronco II, 1985 model now with 200k and still with the same alternator. I'm convinced most vehicles are sound, but require some maintenance. Keep fluids changed regularly and you should be good.