is the main relay and main fuel pump relay the same?

 

The MFR and the fuel pump relay are the same thing. This site has the location of the relay. http://techauto.te.funpic.org/mainrelaydefine.php

The location of the 99 relay is at the bottom of that page. The MFR is fairly easy to replace once you find it. You basically unplug the connector and remove the relay by unbolting it or sliding the relay up from its bracket. (space will be limited under the driver's side dash board, so be patient). Plug in the connector and reinstall the relay by either bolting it or sliding it back into place.

 

Thanks! I will replace the MFR. Hope this works. Thx a bunch guys!

 

Before you go and replace the MFR, you should try to diagnose the problem. You shouldn't have to throw money at a problem until you pinpoint it.

You should get in practice of listening for the fuel pump to turn on before you start the car.

When the car stalls and doesn't start, turn the key to the II (normal running) position and don't try to start it. Listen for the fuel pump to turn on after you hear the clicks for a couple of seconds. It will sound like a faint whirlling or buzzing sound coming from the trunk. If you don't hear the pump kick on when the car isn't starting, then the MFR is the likely culprit. If you hear the pump kick on, and the car isn't starting, then the MFR is not the problem.

 

I completely disagree.....You are not talking about replacing an ECU!!!

1. Themain relay is a known trouble-maker.

2. It is an in-expensive part to replace.

What is you time really worth??? Not only in dianosis but also if you don't fixthe problemand you end up stuck somewhere....Even if the relay isn't the real issue, you have eliminated that very probable possiblity.

Incidently, you asked earlier about replacing the whole ignition switch...Do not do that.That would be a shot-in-the-dark.Your keys are already cut to fit the lock cylinders and the original ignition switch. And those keys are programmed (immobilizer system) = extra cost...There is no need to replace the whole switch.

Earlier, you said that you could not remove the key from the ignition switch. If the steering wheel was at an awkward angle, it can be difficult to turn the ign. switch because the steering lock pin.

If you have the main relay professionally installed,it should be1 hour shop labor (max.) and about $48.00 for the relay.

This should help

Sincerely,
Ed Brian
Accurate Automotive, Inc.
www.accuratecars.com

 

I thought about the main Relay, but i didn't think it was very typical of the main relay to cause the car to die while driving. Do a search on the forum for "Main Relay" or "Main Fuel Relay."
Is it hot where you are? Does the problem seem to be worse when it is hot (or has been hot)inside the car?

 

no not that hot, im in northern california. today during my lunch time, the car died again and i was stuck at the parking lot and not even park. luckily people were nice enough to not say anything. i was going to push the car but i cant put the shift to neutral from park. why is that?

 

That is the shift lock system.

The ignition switch controlis the interlock system. From your description of the car stalling while driving and now the interlock system, I would replace the electrical part of the ignition switch.

 

Have you tried the "key wiggle" test I suggested?

FYI: # 10 is the switch


hondaed posted the part # earlier

 

if i replace the electrical part? will my interlock be fix?