Since VSS drive key is not turning, that appears to be only way to correctly fix. It's a shame and probably points to an assy error when replacement trans was installed.

Upon further reading it is unclear how codes 17 (ECM) and code 4 (TCM) differ, and what conditions might result in one or other. This issue is not addressed.

good luck

 

Thanks so much, Tex.

 

The gear the pin goes into can be pulled and changed out? I'd at least pull it and inspect the teeth on the gear. Lower end of #2 in the pic.

 

Thanks for the photo, Poorman. That's a later version of what I have. As I said in this thread, when I pulled the unit out and turned the bottom gear by hand, the top (VSS pin) turns. However, before I pulled it, I elevated the front wheels and ran the car in DRIVE, and it did not turn. I have one more piece of troubleshooting to do before I pull the tranny, and that is to mark the pin and drive the car to see if it moves, as I am not sure if the unit might be driven by the wheel that wasn't moving when the car was elevated (passenger side).

 

That is the set up for your car - the "pin" goes between the VSS (inside the box) and connects to #2 as it slides thru #1.

With the VSS off, remove the one bolt (#17) and lift out the whole thing.

 

That's definitely a possibility. VSS must be on one final output drive shaft, presumably directly attached to an axle.

I checked the diagnostic for Code 17 and it says to "block the right front wheel and slowly rotate the left front wheel and measure voltage between pins B10 & A26". You might try raisiing on jack stands again if you have a partner to rotate wheel while you observe VSS drive pin or drive slot.

good luck

 

Is this procedure done with the key on, engine off, trans. in neutral? I'm not set up to measure the voltage, but I can check to see if the drive slot is moving. I'm a bit confused, because when I had it elevated, in gear, the left wheel spun like all hell, the right wheel stayed still, and the drive slot did not move. Blocking that still (R) wheel and rotating the left is more of the same, no?

The drive unit does not look the same as the diagram (Poorman). I tried to get one of this type into my tranny, but the single bolt holder was in a different spot, and when I attempted to turn it to the right to line up the bolt hole, the lower housing of the VSS hits a part of the trans and it won't go in, but then, I didn't spend a lot of time trying. One of the wrecking yard guys tried to put it in, and couldn't get it to fit either. It does have a wider gear on the bottom, I noticed.

My VSS drive is taller, has two power steering ports sticking out (both open - no hoses connected) at a 45 degree angle, and doesn't have the same type of spring-clip pin at the center. I'm sure mine comes apart somehow (if that's what you're saying), but not sure if I can use bottom half of this type with top of mine. I may have to go back to the wreckers. Thanks!

 

You don't need to check for voltage until you have confidence the mechanical drive is working. I agree that blocking RF and allowing LF to turn may not make any difference. Still it's easy enough to do and might save pulling trans.

Note, manual said to turn LF wheel by hand, not drive w/ engine. I would not want to find out if the blocked RF can pull w/ front end up.

good luck

 

OK here's the latest. Thanks for chiming in, Mike. I have not pulled codes yet, but have been trying to troubleshoot speedo failure.

I took VSS off and had girlfriend drive car slowly while I walked alongside, gazing at the drive for the VSS to see if it would turn.

When in reverse: Drive unit turns backwards.
When in drive: Drive unit turns forward a tiny fraction of a revolution, and stops turning.
I did this test about 3 times with pretty consistent results until she ran over my foot.

I ordered the Haynes manual at the public library, and will start reading up on tranny removal, unless otherwise advised.

THANKS EXPERTS!!

 

Let us know what you find. Check youtube for videos on trans removal.

good luck