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Power Window Problem

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Old 01-14-2014, 09:58 AM
sammyseville's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2014
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Default Power Window Problem

OK...here’s my sitch….just bought a 2002 Honda Accord EX 4 door sedan…..my left rear power window will not open

It won’t open via the master switch in the driver’s area…

And it won’t open using it’s own switch

Where do I start?

The master switch area….or it’s own switch?

Or somewhere else?
 
  #2  
Old 01-14-2014, 05:56 PM
redbull-1's Avatar
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You actually can start checking other things and in different order and at other locations. The following are some diagnosis I just made up.

First check passenger side under-dash Fuse No. 7 (20A) fuse before the following.

1. Remove the left rear window switch and disconnect the 6P gray connector. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to make sure they are making good contact. Look for bent, loose, or corroded terminals.
2. Leave the left rear window switch unplugged. You will do some test on the 6P gray harness connector.
3. If you have a voltmeter (if you have no voltmeter, you can skip step 3 and still do step 4): With the voltmeter’s red lead touching terminal 5 (Wht/Yel wire) and meter’s black lead touching chassis/body ground. Is there voltage with ignition switch ON and master main switch ON? If there is no voltage, the problem is before the 6P wire harness connector.
If there is voltage; next, with meter’s red lead touching the same terminal 5 (Wht/Yel wire), touch the meter’s black lead to terminal 4 (Wht/Red). Is there still voltage? If there is voltage, then move on to step 4.
4. If the window is up, connect a jumper wire from terminal 6 (Red/Blu wire) to terminal 4 (Wht/Red wire). Connect a different jumper wire from terminal 2 (Red/Yellow wire) to terminal 5 (White/Yel wire). The window should go down with ignition ON (as long as the master main switch is also ON).
If the window is down, connect a jumper wire from terminal 2 (Red/Yellow wire) to terminal 4 (Wht/Red wire). Connect a jumper wire from terminal 6 (Red/Blu wire) to terminal 5 (White/Yel wire). The window should go up. The window should go up with ignition ON (as long as the master main switch is also ON).

If there was power in step #3; but, the motor did not move in step #4, you can test the driver’s window motor directly. This can be the first thing you check instead of the above.
1. Remove door panel.
2. Disconnect the 2P gray connector from the window motor.
3. Test the motor by applying 12 volt battery power and ground to motor side. To lower the glass: apply power (+) to terminal 2 (Blu/Red wire) and ground (-) to terminal 1 (Blu/Wht wire). To raise the glass: apply power (+) to terminal 1 (Blu/Wht wire) and ground (-) to terminal 2 (Blu/Red wire).
 
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