I have a random misfire at idle after the car has warmed up. It happens in park, drive or neutral. It will stumble or misfire one or a couple times in a row and then be fine for a bit, does fine while driving, besides shifting hard. Seems like A/C being on will cause it to happen more often. I have done several things to help determine issue.
Cleaned egr and ports (did ports just a little bit), IACV, checked PCV, has new timing belt, seals, tentioners, etc., 8mm wires show to have spark with tester, plugs are newer NGK spec, valves have been adjusted, listened for vaccum leaks on top of the intake,
the only thing that I have done that show possible sign of malfunction is the coil. The specs say the primary should show a resistance of .4 to .6 ohms and mine showed a 1.0 with the engine pretty warm. The secondary is supposed to be 22k to 34k ohms and mine was 23k, so within the range.
Can you all suggest anything? It seems to be slowly getting worse. I am at a loss.

 

Double check the primary resistance.

Can we assume the cap and rotor were replaced?

 

Do you have Check Engine Light that shows P0300? Any other codes?

Also suggest checking Long Term Fuel Trim to see if its trending lean or rich.

If O2 sensor is original, it may be time for a change. Occasionally a drivability problem is traced to old O2 sensor.

A new rotor and distributor cap might be a cheap fix. However, a close inspection will usually reveal any cracks.

good luck

 

Cap and rotor have not been replaced. They both appear to be in good shape though. I have only had the car 6 months, got it after a tree fell on my 95 lx coupe. I did check the primary resistance a few times yesterday while I was working on it, with the wires unpluged from it and every time I got 1.0 ohms.
I will have to check on how to do the Long term fuel trim, never done that. Car has just over 100k miles. Compression was about 170psi on all cylinders.
Oh, and no check engine lights.

 

O2 sensor sounds like. The motor is probably dumping more fuel cause the sensor is reading a lean burn. Its over compensating and causing it to run rich at idle. Which is causing it to flood and miss. It loads up then burns off that's why its probably random. I would try that first. I. Could be wrong but that's what it sounds like to me. Sometimes they wont throw a CEL code. The sensor might be working still but giving incorrect reading to the computer cause the computer to wrongly adjust your fuel-air ratio

 

I will try that. I have a new o2 sensor I can swap from my parts car. Ill keep you guys posted.

 

Is there more to this story? Like is this a recent motor swap......or other work done to it.

 

No, no motor swaps. I am tempted to switch the transmission because my parts car is a standard with light weight flywheel and organic clutch (about 1500 miles on both) but I think it would be too much work to change my auto to a standard. I had put a lot of work into my 95 accord and a tree in my front yard decided to fall on the back window and smash it pretty good. So I purchased a car similar to it so I could use all the new parts from my old car and put them on my 96 accord.
The ignition switch has been changed, so I have a seperate key to start the car and unlock it. Kind of frustrating. There is a red LED light on top of the steering column and a button near the coin tray left of the steering column but it does nothing. Otherwise, this is a very stock car. I plan to keep it that way as long as it is an automatic.

 

Thanks, just wanted to check to be sure there wasn't recent work done to the car.

 

A red light on the steering column could mean there was a security system/remote starter installed on your car. I would take a look under the dash to see if anything looks out of place with the wiring. The wiring to an aftermarket control box should stick out like a sore thumb.