Random Shutoff
Op- the car "turning" off can be several things. Yes, given the generation, I'm with the switch (elect part of the ign switch) as the first possible.....do you have a volt meter? If so, next time this happens...do not move the key, test to see of you have 12v to the blk/yel wire going to the dist?
I tried wiggling the key in the ignition when it was running to see if that was the problem, but it didn't shut off the car. I finally got frustrated and the last time it shut off on me I had it towed to a local shop. When the car shut off, the radio and everything else was still on and operational. The engine would not start. It was as if something was overheating. When I took it to the shop (had it towed) they said it was a bad ignition coil. They replaced that and I was back on the road the next day. That evening, the car shut off AGAIN. I was thoroughly frustrated and got it to start after about 5 minutes of letting it sit and drove it back to the shop. They have had it since this morning and said they were testing it all day and could not get it to shut off on them. The first time it shut off they put testing equipment in it and said they read an electronics error. When they put in the new coil, it fired right up. Well of course it would fire up, by the time you put the coil in, the engine cools down thus lessening the chance of it happening again. It's not very easy trying to go to work full time and have classes at night when your car is in the shop. Hopefully that info helps! Thanks for the replies.
Last edited by schance17; Apr 18, 2012 at 05:51 PM.
Im starting to wonder if when it gets hot a connection looses contact and shuts the car off, metal expands with heat.
How long does the car run for before it shuts off? Does it get to operating temp?
How is your weather where you live? Is it hot? Cold? Rainy?
How long does the car run for before it shuts off? Does it get to operating temp?
How is your weather where you live? Is it hot? Cold? Rainy?
Do you have a volt meter? If so, next time this happens....be safe, do not turn the key off, check to see if you have 12v to the BLK/YEL wire going into the dist?
So, earlier today I got the car back. After they said they ran it for nearly two shop days, they could not get it to shut off on them. I drove it back to work. (2 miles) Then, on my way home after work (5 miles), it died again. Same symptoms, random shutoff. Radio, dash lights, everything else on, just not the engine. After over 45 seconds of attempted restarts, it turned over and I drove the quarter mile back home. The weather lately has been mid 70s with mild humidity. I live in Alabama. I feel like giving up and selling the car, but if it is an easy fix, I'd like to have the car back. The mechanics are stumped because they can't get it to die on them, but apparently it's all too easy for me. I don't have a voltmeter and I can ask the shop if they can test that. I just hope they can get it to turn off on them. I'll also bring up the ignitor and ICM with them, too. I drove the car about 5 miles before it turned off on me. It seems to happen at operating temperature only, not on cold starts.
The ICM and ignitor are the same thing.
What you need to do is figure out if you have a lack of spark or lack of fuel when the engine will not restart.
A quick test for fuel is to turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. When the check engine light turns on for the bulb check, the fuel pump also turns on for about two seconds. The sound is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so turn off the radio, etc... and listen carefully. Listen for this sound when you try to start the car next time, so you know what to listen for.
Spark is not bad to test, but you would need someone to help you. Do you have one of the old spark plugs, or a timing light?
Also, what kind of spark plugs did you use in your car?
What you need to do is figure out if you have a lack of spark or lack of fuel when the engine will not restart.
A quick test for fuel is to turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. When the check engine light turns on for the bulb check, the fuel pump also turns on for about two seconds. The sound is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so turn off the radio, etc... and listen carefully. Listen for this sound when you try to start the car next time, so you know what to listen for.
Spark is not bad to test, but you would need someone to help you. Do you have one of the old spark plugs, or a timing light?
Also, what kind of spark plugs did you use in your car?
Pa is correct , you need to diagnose if it is a lack of spark or fuel
i have seen a lot of ignitors act the same way your car has..could also be an ignition switch, fuel pump, and a possible main relay, although i have never seen a main relay kill an engine while driving ... but as i always say Diagnose before replacing parts ,
get a can of carb cleaner , after car dies and does not start, remove tube going to throttle body , open the throttle blade manually, spray some carb cleaner in body and see if it starts ( this works a lot better with 2 people ),,,,,,if it start it is a fuel issue ,,if not spark issue
i have seen a lot of ignitors act the same way your car has..could also be an ignition switch, fuel pump, and a possible main relay, although i have never seen a main relay kill an engine while driving ... but as i always say Diagnose before replacing parts ,
get a can of carb cleaner , after car dies and does not start, remove tube going to throttle body , open the throttle blade manually, spray some carb cleaner in body and see if it starts ( this works a lot better with 2 people ),,,,,,if it start it is a fuel issue ,,if not spark issue
The ICM and ignitor are the same thing.
What you need to do is figure out if you have a lack of spark or lack of fuel when the engine will not restart.
A quick test for fuel is to turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. When the check engine light turns on for the bulb check, the fuel pump also turns on for about two seconds. The sound is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so turn off the radio, etc... and listen carefully. Listen for this sound when you try to start the car next time, so you know what to listen for.
Spark is not bad to test, but you would need someone to help you. Do you have one of the old spark plugs, or a timing light?
Also, what kind of spark plugs did you use in your car?
What you need to do is figure out if you have a lack of spark or lack of fuel when the engine will not restart.
A quick test for fuel is to turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. When the check engine light turns on for the bulb check, the fuel pump also turns on for about two seconds. The sound is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so turn off the radio, etc... and listen carefully. Listen for this sound when you try to start the car next time, so you know what to listen for.
Spark is not bad to test, but you would need someone to help you. Do you have one of the old spark plugs, or a timing light?
Also, what kind of spark plugs did you use in your car?
Thanks.


