The fuse was the first thing I checked, but won't hurt to check again.

Fuse= Good
Swapped relays, plugged in master switch and rear switch and still nothing.

 

This is a partial description how the circuit works:

With the ignition switch in ON (II), and for 10 minutes after it is switched to LOCK (0), voltage is applied to the coil of the power window relay by the integrated control unit. The contacts of the power window relay close, applying voltage to all window switches. Once you turn on the main switch in the master panel, the passenger windows can be operated from their door switches or from the master panel.

 

And I guess this would explain why you can operate the windows with the key in the off (0) position before opening a door.

Good food for thought. Is the integrated control unit located above the speaker/black box in the drivers door? Or maybe that box is part of the power door lock system.

 

The integrated control unit is attached to the under-dash fuse/relay box, it probably is okay, as the other windows work as they should.

Check for 12 volt power after the No. 24 fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, when the ignition is turned ON.

 

I guess you lived around Millington where the base is? I lived in a few places around Memphis.....out by the Raleight Springs Mall (not even sure it is there anymore), Hickory Hill area, Perkins/Summer Ave area, Poplar/Mendenhall.

Give me a few to study the wire diagram again.....and what testing you have done to date.

Does your friend have a 4 dr as well, I think you borrowed his master for testing a few weeks ago.....I know you switch the LR with the RR but I'm really leaning towards the switch....or the real off the wall, both the master and rear are bad.

 

I stayed in Millington on the base for 2 years otherwise I was in the Raleigh area about 2 years before relocating to Saint Louis. Memphis has changed for the better since I was there (or some would say for the worst)


My friend does have a 4 door and all his windows work perfectly. I also tried with a new switch from O'reilly's and another switch I sourced from the junk yard= all the same. Rear window would not raise down. The RR works perfectly on the LR side and the LR side switch works fine. I wish this was as simple as swapping the master switch out for a new one!

Thanks for your extensive troubleshooting on this issue!

 

My pleasure.....hope we can figure it out?

I haven't given up yet....sorry for all of the "run around".

I haven't said it today so here is my one shot....I HATE electrical issues

 

Yes, electrical issues are aggrevating! I have installed a couple of remote starts in my time but have never had a some what simple headache as this one! I don't mind the running around, that is what troubleshooting is all about

 

Let see if we can isolate where the fault is. We can try to move in steps through the circuit to the right rear window. From your previous troubleshooting, there is no power at the Wht/Yel wire at the rear switch.

I ask for you to check the No. 24 fuse, which you said you did and it was good.

Now is there 12 volt power after the No. 24 fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, when the ignition is turned ON? If there is, then we can move further down the circuit.

 

Just checked and yes there is 12v present in the #24 RR window fuse spot.