The Wht/Yel wire goes to the master power window switch and the right rear window switch. You can check for power on the Wht/Yel wire at various spots. I would start at the end and work back; for example, if no power at the Wht/Yel wire at the Master Power Window Switch, then check at connector C418.

If no power at the Wht/Yel wire at the right rear power window switch, then check at connector C534 and then connector C469.

 

Redbull, help me with these thoughts.

Power (12v) is there at the rear switch in the "down" position - YEL/GRN into the rear switch....RED/YEL out of the switch.

I'm getting lost on the "ground" side.

Jump the BLK to YEL and there is still 12v on the YEL at the rear switch??????....pull the wires from the rear switch and apply ground right to the wire and the window went down.

Is the rear switch "bleeding" 12v from the WHT/YEL (pin a) to the YEL (pin E)? WHT/YEL pin A would be hot from the KO, window relay, fuse 24.

IMO, the YEL at the rear switch is the "key" to the issue.

 

From the same description I previously posted and the right rear power window circuit diagram.

Voltage should be applied to all window switches with the ignition in ON. Once you turn on the main switch in the master panel, the passenger windows can be operated from their door switches or from the master panel (this appears to be due to the main switch closing the circuit via the ground, see circuit diagram).

The way the window suppose to operate is when you move the window switch in the right rear door to UP, voltage is applied to the right rear power window motor. The motor is grounded through the contacts in the right rear power window switch and the master panel switch. The window then moves up as long as you hold the switch in the UP position. If you move the right rear door window switch to DOWN, voltage is applied in the opposite direction, and the window moves down as long as you hold the switch in the DOWN position.

It's a lot trying to read the various posts regarding jumping wires, etc. and I did not follow closely what was done with the wire jumping, etc.

The problem may be at the Yel wire or some other problem. His first post indicated no power at the Wht/Yel at the rear switch.

 

I'm down to ground missing on the YEL wire at the rear window switch.

The jumper wires were to rule out the switch(s)....jumping the wires to sim the what the switch would be doing.

The OP states that he does not have ground on the YEL at the rear switch, which then passes to the RED/BLU going to the motor. If he applies ground to the RED/BLU....window goes down?

Check your "other e-mail"....I sent a better file.

 

OP- Key on and no jumps or anything. Can you verify the YEL wire at the rear switch has continuity to ground. Even test it with key off, give it a few minutes as the ICU will still be in play - ie make sure when the key is off that the front windows will not move.

 

I will try this later this afternoon and post results. Poorman and Redbull, thanks for the extensive troubleshooting to figure out this issue.

 

Update: Issue has been fixed and thanks for everyone's help.
Nusdog posted he was having the same issue and it seems that the harness between door and pillar becomes somewhat disconnected at times. Pulled the boot back, wiggled the wires and the connector a couple of times and it started working. Looks like the wires get pulled a little too much when the door is opened and closed over time so I pulled the wires close to the harness and all has been good!

 

That would be connector C534 mentioned in post #21.

 

Yes you are right. I tested that connector and all was well at the time. I think the problem didn't exist when I was testing it and probably worked at the time but once I put the boot back on it probably went back to not working. I hate that this was staring at me the entire time!

 

Glad the problem is solved. It may have been the ground wire connection at the C534 connector that was causing the issue.