If you are going to do this....do yourself a favor. Not listed in any books, I always use a Sharpie or nail polish on the old belt and gears....mark from a tooth on the belt to the gear. Then remove the belt, count the teeth from mark to mark on the old belt, transfer those (same number of teeth) to the new belt. Upon installation of the new belt those marks should be "dead on"...if not pull it back off and go again.

Now once you spin the motor to put proper tension the marks will be out of alingment until the proper number of rev is complete....don't worry with that, you are just making sure you start at the same place the old one was......one tooth off on installation will be a PIA.

Not sure if this makes sense but trust me it helps....just my two cents.

 

thanks for the relies guys. I just got my Crank shaft remover tool today from the mail, I will get the Repair manual then we'll see how it goes..

 

mark everything. I think I would actually take mine in to a dealership next time. I just work to slow, I only did it at the time because we had just bought a new car and had not gotten rid of the old so we basically had a extra car. It took me two weekends, and a couple nights. Try the ericthecarguy video.

I ended up using the crankshaft tool and a jackstand with the extension on the jackstand. Then used a breaker bar in a 6 foot pipe clamp to get enough torque to get the crankshaft pulley loose. You can wedge the breaker bar for the crankshaft tool against the floor to stop the pulley from spinning. I put the spare tire on as well I was afraid I was going to rock the car of the jackstands. I probably had 700-900 ft lbs trying to break that "weld" that develops on that bolt before it finally popped. You can also just take it to a mechanic and have him loosen it and then go home and take it off the weld that develops over time will not be there so it will come off easy. Theres the starter method to which I know nothing about so I wont comment.

white out works for marking points, that is what I used I just marked everything before I took it off and put the new belt in the same spot. I didnt bother with the alignment points.

 

I'm stuck at the crank shaft pulley at the moment. I used 1/2 drive ratchet connected to the pulley holding tool and 1/2” drive 19mm 6point socket, 1/2” drive 20” long extension bar a long with 1/2” drive 18” long breaker bar but the sucker won't budge... I'm so frustrated ... The 350ft/lbs impact wrench didn't help either.....aghhhh

 

Use some propane heat will help

 

Propane heat directly on bolt head for 5 mins, then try again. This lengthens the bolt slightly breaking the huge washer/crankshaft pulley friction resistance.

good luck

 

i'm soaking that sucker up with wd-40 over night and we'll see how it goes...

 

thanks guys.. I'm gonna go out and get some propane. Homedepot here I come

 

On these V6 engines it is easy to rotate the crankshaft as you break the bolt loose. If you rotate almost 360 and realign, the timing belt marks will be off 180. I did this and it baffled me at first as I did not realize I had rotated the crankshaft significantly from TDC setting during breaking the bolt.

good luck

 

thanks i'll keep that in mind when i remove the bolt.