Replace timing belt on 2001 honda accord V6 sedan
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 74
no extensions . even a small extension adds twist and you would need more torque. texas honda said the store bought hold downs won't accept the 3/4 socket so you might want to check before you buy. also I remember a mechanic I worked with show me 3 snap-on 19mm 1/2 inch impacts that he broke trying to get that b***h off. I made mine out of an old 1 inch drive socket . this was easily done sine I worked across the parking lot where Disney makes all it's special rides. anyway go impact socket I dont think the silver ones has a chance against that bolt
Last edited by hobieslug45; Sep 7, 2011 at 05:55 AM.
Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 197
You may try getting a extension that will allow you to get the breaker bar beyond the frame of the car. Then rest the extension on a jack stand, put the extension inside of a 1 inch steel pipe about 6 ft long. Also put the spare tire on the extension should fit snugly up against it, you may have to turn the wheel a little bit to get correct positioning. So you have two points keeping the extension stable the spare tire and the jack stand. Then grab hold of the bar and push, wear gloves long pants and safety glasses if something breaks you'll go flying. I did this on mine it had been on for 10 yrs in rust country, while the extension bars introduce lost torque you have a lot more leverage.
Definitely get a 6 pt impact socket as others have mentioned. They will not break as easy.
Definitely get a 6 pt impact socket as others have mentioned. They will not break as easy.
Last edited by moey; Sep 6, 2011 at 06:37 AM.
Super Moderator : And A Texan
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,652
From: Katy, TX
Extensions don't reduce torque applied to bolt w/ a breaker bar by any significant amount (leverage length essentially unaffected). Consequently, use of extensions w/ a breaker bar is OK except for the sometimes alarming torsion-twist. Here 3/4" extensions would be helpful to reduce the torsion-twist, but use a 3/4"x19mm impact socket. Use of 1/2x19mm socket requires the 3/4x1/2 reducer, which is a weak component, likely to fail.
Howver, extensions w/ an air impact are not good. The extensions reduce the peak impact torque due to their spring effect in torsion. You want air impact directly coupled to an impact socket.
good luck
Howver, extensions w/ an air impact are not good. The extensions reduce the peak impact torque due to their spring effect in torsion. You want air impact directly coupled to an impact socket.
good luck
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 41
I've got it guys. My mechanic friend told me I don't need any crankshaft remover. He told me to put a breaker bar and 19mm socket then line up the breaker bar to the lower metal frame and turn the key to start the car, just turn it so the crank shaft can turn over and bolt will be released.
Newest Of Newbies
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 23
No offense but it seems like you are in over your head. I really think you need some help in either the EricTheCarGuy video and/or helms manual. You have questions on some of the easiest/simple stuff of the procedure.
When I did the timing belt, I used the starter blip method to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. I retightened it with the crankshaft holding tool so that the engine wouldnt spin when we torqued it. The most time consuming part was for me was removing/installing all the dang bolts to get the timing covers off. Another difficult part, that I would avoid, was we bled the coolant from the engine block as well as the radiator. There is probably a better way to do it then the way we did it. The engine was also supported on by a block of wood held up by a floor jack since the side engine mount was removed. We had to play around with the engine height at times to be able to access stuff.
We changed the timing belt, ps pump belt, accessory belt, water pump, antifreeze (of course), and timing belt tensioner. If I had to do it again, I would have also changed out the timing belt idler and tensioning pulleys. I think some ppl also change out the cam and crank seals but I didnt. You should at least inspect them I believe.
When I did the timing belt, I used the starter blip method to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. I retightened it with the crankshaft holding tool so that the engine wouldnt spin when we torqued it. The most time consuming part was for me was removing/installing all the dang bolts to get the timing covers off. Another difficult part, that I would avoid, was we bled the coolant from the engine block as well as the radiator. There is probably a better way to do it then the way we did it. The engine was also supported on by a block of wood held up by a floor jack since the side engine mount was removed. We had to play around with the engine height at times to be able to access stuff.
We changed the timing belt, ps pump belt, accessory belt, water pump, antifreeze (of course), and timing belt tensioner. If I had to do it again, I would have also changed out the timing belt idler and tensioning pulleys. I think some ppl also change out the cam and crank seals but I didnt. You should at least inspect them I believe.
Super Moderator : And A Texan
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,652
From: Katy, TX
This works on V6 because crankshaft pulley turns CW. The 4-cyl. Accord engines turn CCW at the crankshaft pulley and this procedue will not work.
There is some risk of damaging the flywheel where the starter engages.
Only do this when other options are exhausted.
I think most bolts can be broken w/ heat and a good air impact (plus good air compressor).
good luck
There is some risk of damaging the flywheel where the starter engages.
Only do this when other options are exhausted.
I think most bolts can be broken w/ heat and a good air impact (plus good air compressor).
good luck
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