I finally finished changing my timing belt with help both from members in here and my mechanic friend. It takes me a few days to finish because I had a problems with removing the crank shaft bolt. Finally, my mechanic friend told me the trick so I could get the job done.

Note: you're doing this at your own risk, I just post what i've done from my experience.

Things that you need:

First, disconnect the negative battery cable from the terminal. With the vehicle in park, apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels. Then, remove the plastic engine cover by pulling them upward, this will give us a little more space to work.



Remove the alternator belts using a wrench on the tensioner pulley center bolt and turn the tensioner counter-clockwise(turn it to the back of the car) to release the alternator belt tension. Remove the belt.



Remove the plug from the alternator, be careful when removing the plug, mine is old so when I push the tab it snapped.



Then remove the 10mm nut, the top 10mm bolt and other two bolts to let the alternator drop down.
NOTE: DO NOT REMOVE THE ALTERNATOR FROM THE CAR. JUST LET IT SITS DOWN THERE SO WE CAN HAVE MORE ROOM TO REMOVE THE TOP TIMING BELT COVER



Loosen the front passenger wheel lug nuts first, jack up the car then remove the front wheel.
Remove the splash guard by removing a bunch of fasteners securing the inner fender splash guard in place. This will expose the crankshaft pulley.

 

This next step took me about 2days to finally get it done. It's removing the crankshaft bolt. First I've tried the 1/2 breaker bar to remove the bolt but it snapped because the sucker was really tight. I even tried to heat it up with the torque but it wont budge. Finally, my mechanic friend told me to use the 3/4 breaker bar and put it against the body then turn the engine. The engine actually loosen up the bolt.





Next instead of positioning the top dead center, It's easier for me to remove the power steering pump, remove the engine mount and raise the engine.
To remove the power steering pump, loosen the tension nut and removing the belt, then removing mounting nut and mounting bolt. Note: the mounting nut and mounting bolt are underneath the power steering pulley.



After removing 2 nuts, 1 bolt, you can put the pulley on top of the engine.



Remove the two bolts and wiring harness retainer holding the passenger-side engine mount to the block. Remove the trough-bolt, mount, engine mount bracket and the engine oil dipstick tube. NOTE: before removing the engine mount, make sure you put a jack under the engine oil pan first, I use the 2x4 underneath the oil pan so the jack wont damage it.

 

Then slowly raise the engine up to the point that you have enough room to work but not too high. Next remove the 2 top timing belt covers by removing a bunch of screws. DO NOT REMOVE THE BOTTOM COVER YET.





It will expose the two pulleys. This is the time where we need to find top dead center which is the highest point in the cylinder that each piston reaches as it travels up-and-down during crankshaft rotation, by turning the cranskshaft with a socket and ratchet attached to the bolt threaded into the front of the crankshaft. Align the TDC notch on the crankshaft pulley with the pointer on the timing belt lower cover. Note: it's easier to remove 1 of the sparkplugs so we can turn the crankshaft over.

 

Then make sure the timing marks are properly aligned by aligning the marks on the sprocket with the mark on the rear cover. Also verify the camshaft sprocket timing marks are aligned with the rear cylinder bank. I mark every timing marks with red marker so they can stand out when i match up the old timing belt with the new one. When every marks are line up properly, proceed to remove the bottom cover. Since you're down under the car, now is the good time to drain all the coolant or you will make a big mess in your garage. The white radiator drain lug is underneath the radiator on passenger side.



Now loosen the timing belt tensioner, then slip the timing belt of the sprockets.



After the timing belt has been removed, remove the timing belt tensioner, idler pulley then the water pump. The water pump is easy to remove since the idler pulley is out of the way, basically, just slowly remove the bolts since there are still some coolant left in there.
This is the pic of new and old water pumps. The old one is in the bottom. Note: There is some contaminants in it so it's a good time for me to change.



Install the new water pump but don't forget to apply the water pump sealant. They're $1.99 a pack.
Install the idler pulley and timing belt tensioner with 33 fl/lbs torque.
Install the new timing belt, PAY ATTENTION TO THE MARK, MATCH UP THE OLD TIMING BELT WITH THE NEW ONE SO YOU CAN COPY THE MARK OVER.





I got mine from advance auto part for $19.99 with 2 years warranty but I don't think i'm gonna change it again in 2 years. The factory timing belt lasted 10 years on the car and it still looked in good shape, no rip or anything.
Install bottom cover first, put the radiator drain lug back in, then install the top 2 covers.





Install the engine mount but make sure you have the power steering pump belt in place first before installing the engine mount otherwise, you have to remove the engine mount again.
Install power steering pump, oil dipstick tube, Alternator and alternator belt, put the spark plug back, refill the radiator with new coolant, reconnect the negative battery cable

TAKE A REALLY GOOD LOOK AGAIN MAKE SURE YOU HAVE EVERYTHING IN PLACE BEFORE START THE CAR. TAKE YOUR TIME BECAUSE IT'S CRUCIAL YOU DON'T WANT TO DAMAGE THE ENGINE IF YOU MISS JUST ONE MINOR THING.
then start the car up, listen to the engine and making sure there is no unusual noises.
There you have it, you just changed timing belt and water pump on your V6 accord. To my experience, I do everything carefully, I don't rush into remove everything at once so it took me about 12 working hours because I was stuck at removing the crankshaft pulley. If i would rate this, i'll rate it at 7 out of 10. But just take your time and do thing right, you should be able to do this. Goodluck.

 

Update: 457 miles so far and the car runs great. I did change my spark plugs as well. Now the car is more responsive than before.

 

Good job...glad you got it.

 

Nice write-up. I'll move it into the DIY section.

 

Thanks for your help and a few other good fellas in here, i was able to remove the crank shaft bolt.

 

please do, I hope this can help someone else in the near future when they try to do it themselves.