I just downloaded the service manual THANKS thats awesome. I am going to read through it for awhile.

I am also going to pull that 7.5 fuse to see if I can get codes back.

I think that 2 of them came from unpluging tps & map while it was running. I had originally reset the CEL by unhooking the neg terminal on my battery.

I will definatly post the cure, when I find it.

I have seen a few very similar issues on this site as well as others.

 

My car has cruise control, and I unhooked that cable.

When pulling the old motor, I broke the plastic guild for the (cruise control)lanyard to pull with the accelerator on the throttle body.

It operated the cable for the cruise control, and coincidentally that is the vacuum line I unplug to keep it from stalling

 

What are the wire colors going to the injector resistor? The injector resistor is on the driver's side of the engine bay close to the windshield. It woudl be to the drivers side of the brake master cylinder reservoir. It has metal fins on top of it.

The injector resistor will have a connector that can hold 6 wires.

 

The 6 wires are solid/stripe
Y/Blu
Y/Red
Y/G
R/blk
Green (couldn't see stripe)
Blue (couldn't see stripe)

I am getting a flashlight and a rag and will look closer for a stripe on the last 2

 

There is an identical connector right next to it. It should have 5 wires. Four are definitely red/blk. I can't remember the 5th wire color.

If that is true, you have those plugs switched.

 

I will check it out tomorrow after work and let you know....Thanks again for grinding this 1 out with me.

I seem to remember there are 3 plugs in that corner, and the 1 was easy to find because 1 only had 2 wires and another had a bunch more than 6.

Cant say for sure....but I will let you know tomorrow.

I did look at those 2 wires on the plug that seemed to be solid....I didn't see a colored stripe.

 

I checked and the connection with 5 (4 r/blk 1 y/blu) is correctly connected.

I got code 12 today on my way home from work (about 300miles since I pulled the 7.5 fuse)

I looked it up and it was EGR

I pulled the fuel rail and cleaned (with carb cleaner) the chamber (had 5-6 10mm bolts) pulled EGR valve and cleaned the plunger....it seemed to idle better for about 10minutes then back to the same.

I priced the EGR at Oriellys (formerly Kragen) $135

I read you mentioned DIY egr cleaning insructions, however I can't seem to find it. Do you have a link?

Also...this motor change out drained my funds, so I won't be able to replace EGR for 2 weeks. Should I avoid driving it until then?

 

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...56/#post245852

Your last posts confused me. Is the electrical connector to the fuel injector resistor box the one with the 4 red/blk wires and the yel/blu?

 

I'm sorry for the confusion in my response. I confirmed that I found both the connectors you spoke of. In a previous post I Identified the colors wires of the 6 wire connector.

I looked at the 5 wire connector next to it. It had 4 red/black and 1 ...um I can't remember.

I looked at the wires on both the connectors to see that they matched on either side of the connection.



Thank you for the port cleaning link. Honestly I was excited to see CEL come on to give me some additional direction.

I wrote down the colors of the 5 wire and reported back the colors, without much thought of how it read.

 

I cleaned the egr ports tonight, cleaned the egr lifter plunger and my injectors.

I had zero result. I pulled the battery cables and the 7.5fuse to reset the CEL. (code 12 is what I got) it went off by itself.

1,2 & 3 ports are the same size (#'d to cylinder)..aprox 7/16 while #4 is slightly smaller. I cleaned with carb cleaner and a pipe cleaner. I can now see clean shiny metal.

I then looked at the ports to my old motor and verified 4 is slightly smaller on that intake as well.

I will say that I got code 12 with 1 long blink and 2 fast blinks with CEL

ANY IDEAS of things I can do or check in the egr system???


Someone PM'd me that they have the same issues and replaced the egr valve and the solenoid and have the same code coming on after replacement.