Rough/low idle after 5 minutes of running
#1
Rough/low idle after 5 minutes of running
Hello all,
I have a 94 Accord LX 5spd with about 225,000 on her. The car died on me the other day while driving to work and I happened to be right next to a honda dealership so I had them look at it. They told me it was the distributor failing and wanted $850 to fix it. I bought one online and replaced it myself and the car started right up. Now it runs fine for about 5 minutes and then the idle drops real low(500rpm) and seems to be running rough. If I press the gas pedal it bogs down for a seond then revs up and once I release the pedal the rpms drop so low it almost stalls out but never does. Checked spark plugs and they look good. Changed wires about 6 months ago. TB looks pretty clean. Any other ideas?? Thanks in advance.
I have a 94 Accord LX 5spd with about 225,000 on her. The car died on me the other day while driving to work and I happened to be right next to a honda dealership so I had them look at it. They told me it was the distributor failing and wanted $850 to fix it. I bought one online and replaced it myself and the car started right up. Now it runs fine for about 5 minutes and then the idle drops real low(500rpm) and seems to be running rough. If I press the gas pedal it bogs down for a seond then revs up and once I release the pedal the rpms drop so low it almost stalls out but never does. Checked spark plugs and they look good. Changed wires about 6 months ago. TB looks pretty clean. Any other ideas?? Thanks in advance.
#3
hey partner,no the O2 sensor wouldnt cause that problem,
Lets look at when it starts running rough?
as the car is warming up it runs fine you said rite?
but when it reaches normal operating temp thats when the trouble starts rite?
At N-O-T(normal operating temp)is when all the valves kick in an start doing there thing!IAC valve,FIT valve,EGR valve,ect.
how about the coil pack where exactly is the coil sitting?cause if its close to any heat,even if its mounted too close to the distributor and they both get hot that would cause that to happen,
I know cause i had the same issue,so what i did was move my coil pack as far as i could from the distributor,i mounted it on my valve cover.
The distributor you bought did it come with cap an rotor?
you mite have the distributor off 180 degrees?
check make sure your at TDC the #1 piston is up and on the compression stroke?check to see if the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire?if it isnt its at the #4 wire plug?
disconnect the distributor and turn the crank shaft pulley 180 degrees counterclockwise then install distributor back and give it a go?let me kno what you come up with ill be looking for a reply,good luck
Lets look at when it starts running rough?
as the car is warming up it runs fine you said rite?
but when it reaches normal operating temp thats when the trouble starts rite?
At N-O-T(normal operating temp)is when all the valves kick in an start doing there thing!IAC valve,FIT valve,EGR valve,ect.
how about the coil pack where exactly is the coil sitting?cause if its close to any heat,even if its mounted too close to the distributor and they both get hot that would cause that to happen,
I know cause i had the same issue,so what i did was move my coil pack as far as i could from the distributor,i mounted it on my valve cover.
The distributor you bought did it come with cap an rotor?
you mite have the distributor off 180 degrees?
check make sure your at TDC the #1 piston is up and on the compression stroke?check to see if the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire?if it isnt its at the #4 wire plug?
disconnect the distributor and turn the crank shaft pulley 180 degrees counterclockwise then install distributor back and give it a go?let me kno what you come up with ill be looking for a reply,good luck
#5
1st Honda,
Thanks for the reply. When I first start the car up it seems to idle just fine. Only after about 5 minutes do the idle 5 rpms drop. The engine is not to N.O.T. at this point though, it is about half way there according to the needle. I will look into the coil getting to hot. I bought the whole distributor assembly (cap, rotor, ICM, etc...) The car would not start at all with the old distributor assembly so I just pulled the old one off and put the new one in place making sure the shaft end on the distributor assembly was in the same position as the old one I removed. Im wondering if the dealership removed the distributor assembly and did not put it back in the exact same way and now the timing is a little off??, which would cause my lack of power and rough idle but never any stalling??
Thanks for the reply. When I first start the car up it seems to idle just fine. Only after about 5 minutes do the idle 5 rpms drop. The engine is not to N.O.T. at this point though, it is about half way there according to the needle. I will look into the coil getting to hot. I bought the whole distributor assembly (cap, rotor, ICM, etc...) The car would not start at all with the old distributor assembly so I just pulled the old one off and put the new one in place making sure the shaft end on the distributor assembly was in the same position as the old one I removed. Im wondering if the dealership removed the distributor assembly and did not put it back in the exact same way and now the timing is a little off??, which would cause my lack of power and rough idle but never any stalling??
#10
Cleaned EGR ports, which did have pretty heavy carbon build up but car is still having same issue. Im not sold that timing is the next place to go though. The car runs very well when engine is cold. Im gonna search some more and see what I can find.