RPM fluctuations (Problem Solved!)
 

OK. I have searched the forum and have not seen a post with a problem identical to mine. This one is on my '95 V6 (it seems to be the problem child, it is actually my wife's, but I inherited the care of it when I married her so now I consider it my own).
Anyway...this only happens occasionally and I am stumped. Every now and then the Tachometer will go nuts and jump around for a while. Usually jumps from 0 to about 3000, back and forth. Sometimes it will jump around for a few minutes, then drop down to 0 for a long time, then it will start jumping again. At first I thought it was just a faulty gauge, or connection, whatever. But I noticed when it is jumping around like that, the engine seems to "shudder" I guess would be a good way of describing it. Nothing major, but noticeable. Like say I'm going down the interstate and I have the cruise set on 70. The needle starts jumping and the engine just doesn't feel right, kind of like it is missing or something. I do have a CEL, but I haven't checked the code yet. I plan on going to AutoZone this weekend to pull the code.
Anybody got any suggestions or tests I could try to diagnose this?
P.S. I am having the t-belt, water pump, & seals changed next weekend as the car has 113k on it (I know, I know, I'm overdue.)
I also don't have any idea the last time the spark plugs/wires were changed, if they have ever been changed at all. I plan on doing that myself if I can get to them and if I can get my hands on a torque wrench sometime soon.

RE: RPM fluctuations
 

On models w/ distributors, the ignitor generates apulsed voltage signal that the instrument panel interprets as RPM. I think you have a coil over plug (COP) system, which is probably similar. In any case a failing coil, ignitor, or spark plug may cause a spurious signal that upsets the instrument panel rpm detection circuit. That CEL may be indicate a miss on a cylinder which would tell you which cylinder has a defective component. I would start w/ a new spark plug for that cylinder and see if that fixes the problem. Next you might move the COP to another cylinder and see if problem follows. If yes, then a new or used COP would be needed. I think they are pretty expensive.

good luck

good luck

RE: RPM fluctuations
 

Thanks Texas. I'm seriously hoping it is merely a spark plug. I am pretty sure the current plugs need to be replaced. I'm going to AutoZone tomorrow & pull the codes for the CEL. I'll update.

RE: RPM fluctuations
 

TexasHonda, a COP system does not have a distributor/plug wirescorrect? The V6 does have a distributor with plug wires running from itself to the plugs so I don't think it is a COP system. I think Honda started using the COP system on the 2000 V6's.

RE: RPM fluctuations
 

So I went to Autozone yesterday & pulled the CEL codes with their scan tool. It gave me 2 codes: P0725 (engine speed input circuit malfunction)and P0141(Oxygen Sensor).
So.....TheAutoZone gave various "troubleshooting" for the P0725listed as follows:
Definition
Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction - ECM to TCM
Probable Causes
1.-Open or short circuit condition
2.-Poor electrical connection
3.-TCM/PCM communication error

The PCM has determined that a malfunction exists in the electrical circuit for the engine speed input.

Definition
Engine speed input circuit malfunction
Explanation
Open or short circuit condition
Probable Causes
1.-Poor Electrical Connection
2.-Check communication error
3.-Failed CKP sensor

Definition
TCC does not engaged
Probable Causes
Check ignition system for faults

Definition
Engine speed input circuit malfunction
Probable Causes
1.-Short or open circuit condition in the CKP circuit
2.-CKP sensor malfunction
3.-Harness or connector damage from TCM to ECM

Definition
RPM input-Lock-up clutch does not engage
Probable Causes
1.-Poor connection at ignition coil
2.-short or open ignition coil wire
3.-Failed ignition control

Definition
Engine speed signal circuit

Definition
Failed crankshaft position sensor signal
Probable Causes
1.-Open or short circuit condition
2.-Poor electrical connection
3.-Mechanical condition
4.-Faulty crank sensor

Definition
Engine speed signal from ECM to TCM missing
Probable Causes
1.-Open or short circuit condition
2.-Poor electrical connection

Definition
Engine speed input low to TCM
Explanation
Vehicle in drive throttle more than 12%-Engine speed
Input to TCM from PCM incorrect
Probable Causes
1.-Poor connection between PCM and TCM
2.-Open or short circuit condition
3.-Failed TCM or PCM

Definition
Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction - CKP Sensor
Probable Causes
1.-Open or short circuit condition
2.-Poor electrical connection
3.-Failed CKP sensor

I'm sorry for such a long post. I just wanted to include EVERYTHING that was on the print out from AutoZone. As I mentioned earlier, I am going to be replacing the plugs/wires soon.Does anyone thinka bad plug or wirecould be causing this? Anyone think the O2 sensor trouble code will go away after I fix whatever is throwing the P0725 code?

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

I have had similiar engine behavior on a 4 gen, turned out to be a faulty idle air control valve.

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

Thanks zexkid37.
OK so I'm pretty new to this aspect of the engine.I see the IAC isattached to the throttle body. My Haynes gives instructions fora "check" procedure. Looks like I may need an adittional tachometer to check it. I'll have to see if I can find one of those around here.
Anybody else got any suggestions on what could be causing the CELcode(s)?

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

My 97 Acura TL manual lists P0725 as an ignition coil fault. I'm pretty sure the P codes are standard codes, same for all vehicles, so you may have some faulty info from AZ, but I could be wrong. Since you have a distributor, a coil fault is a distinct possibility. In that case the rpm signal is generated by ignitor as I described above. Coil is usually cheaper than the ignitor. A faulty (usually won't start car) coil can be detected by measuring primary and secondary resistance w/ a precision VOM against specification.

The fault is very similar to faults I've had w/ engine speed (ignition coil). The wiring problem is possible, but low probablity. Check your wires and harnesses.

I wouldn't worry about the O2 sensor fault until I got the engine miss/rpm problem fixed. It may go away on fixing the rpm problem.

CKP fault generates a separate fault code, P0335.

good luck

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

I think you are right about the fault codes being universal. Here is a site that shows general descriptions of what all the codes are supposed to mean: http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub...l_obd_main.htm
It says the same thing as AZ about my codes, but I do not doubt it could be wrong and you could be right! Couldn't a faulty ignitor/coil tecnically be listed as a problem with the "engine speed input circuit"?
By "precision VOM" do you mean a multimeter that can read volts & ohms?
Sorry for all the questions. I just really would liketo get this thing diagnosed this weekend when I am at my dad's house with the car .

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

VOM

Volt
Ohm
Meter

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

Yeah I knew the volt ohm meter part. It was the "precision" part that threw me. I didn't know if he was talking about a specific, expensive kind or just any old VOM I could get at like AutoZone or Advance.

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

Hey 00AccordLX5spd, it could be possible that the particular CEL's that you have are a product of some upstream problem. With a bad IAC, my car was confused whether it is at operating temp or not. I believe that the car uses different ign & timing maps depending on engine sensor input(ie. temp, rpm, oxygen), so running on the highway at 70, with the help of air passing over the radiator could trick the vehicle into thinking that the car wasn't at operating temp, causing 02 sensor, crank position sensors to out of an excepted range. How does your temperature gauge read? Normal(good old honda, just below halfway mark on the temp gauge) or is it eradict? I have even seen 02 and crank sensors bark, over bad gas before. Are you in cold weather that uses a winter blend of fuel? Good luck man.

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

Thanks zex.
Operating temp stays constant - right below the halfway mark.
The RPM's jump around even at idle, I just used the example of being on the highway cruising at 70 to try to better explain the way the engine felt.
Speedometer seems normal too. No jumping around there either.
The only thing that is erratic on any of the gauges is the RPM.
I never use winter blend fuel either.
I don't even know if they sell the stuff here in Mississippi. Right now it is 90 outside and the humidity feels like you are in a steam room.Even in the dead ofwinter time it can get up to about 75 or 80 on any given day (then be 30 the next day)even in January!
The RPM's have been pulling this crap for quite a while now (like 2 or 3 years.) It just didn't happen as frequently as it does now and the check engine light didn't come on till about 6 months or so ago. My wife drives the car and she hardly ever mentions it to meeither so the only time I notice is when I am driving.
I really think it has something to do with the spark plugs/wires not being changed in a LONG time. I am going to check all I can this weekend & let you guys know what I come up with. I am leaving it at the shop on Monday to have the tbelt, water pump, & sealschanged. I plan on doing the plugs & wires myself though. I don't want to have to pay for something I can do!
Thanks to all! ANY suggestions are still welcome as I am going to attempt a diagnosis this weekend!

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

Changed the spark plugs last weekend. Then put the car in for t-belt, water pump, drive belts, & oil seals. Got the car back on Friday. This morning I reset the ECU. CEL only went off for about 1 or 2 second then came right back on[:@]. Drove around today and the rpm fluctuations are still there (although not quite as bad as before.) Today it only happened one time, and the rpms only jumped around for about 30 seconds, then everything was back to normal. When I changed the plugs,all the wires looked great.After inspecting the wires I even cranked the car up inthe dark to check for any arcing - none.All the plugs that I took out were clean as a whistle too. The gaps were a bit toowide on the old ones, but other than that I didn't see a single thing wrongwith the old ones. So I guess I wasn't too surprised when the rpm fluctuations were still there.
I think I am going to look for a VOMso I can check the ignition coil.
I also may look for an external tach I can hook up to check the IAC.

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

Since your problem is intermittent, the coil could check good. WhenI said precision, I meant a decent quality instrument capable of resolving +/- 1Kohms. Most any of the digital VOM's, even the inexpensive ones will do this. Make sure you have the specs for your vehicle. If measurements are marginal, i.e resistance near lower end of expected range, the coil may be bad. My understanding is the range of spec resistances is related to temperature, not expected variability of the coil.

On a no-start 90EX, I measured the coil resistance near the lower end of the spec range, and thought it was probably OK. After replacing the ignitor w/ no change, I finally checked coil again w/ a better VOM, and got resistance below the spec lower limit. New coil and I was running again.

good luck

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

Thanks Texas...do you think I could get a decent VOM at an AutoZone, Advance, or O'reilley? I haven't gone to look for one yet.
Also...does anybody have any experience with the CKP sensor? I was reading my Haynes which says: "The crank angle sensor (CKP) determines the timing for the fuel injection and ignition on each cylinder. It also detects engine RPM."
I know I need a VOM to check that too. Heck...pretty much everything I have researched that looks like could be causing this problem requires a VOM to check! So I know I really need one. I'm gonna try to get by AZ and look for one tomorrow.

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

You can buy inexpensive digital models for <$20 from Walmart, AZ, etc that should be fine.

The CKP sensor is another coil loop where a voltage is induced by a magnet. You measure the coil resistance to check them. They don't often go bad, so unless you have a CKP fault code, this is probably not your problem.

good luck

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

code P O725 on the 95 acc v6 has to do with the coil input to the tcm,,,
i have seen it a few times turned out to be a bad coil,, But you need to DIAGNOSE it first .

here is what you do,, as adviced you need a voltmeter,, First off chk, to make sure that the connection at the coil is nice , clean and tight,
If it is ,, disconnect the A ( 26) connector at the tcm,, turn the key on, chk for voltage between A5 ( positive Blue wire ) and A 13 ( negative brown/black wire ) , If there is battery voltage , make sure that the connector is clean and tight when it plugs into the tcm ,there is a long shot that it could also be a bad tcm but i would be surprised if it turns out to be it .
,If no battery voltage ,, there is a short or open in the blue wire from tcm to coil,, ,,then you need to do is a continuity test on the blue wire from tcm to coil..,
Do the test, but i am willing to bet that it turns out to be a bad coil , or poor connection at coil,,

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

Will do. Thanks desert!

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

OK...so I'm a moron.
I have a few questions:
1) deserthonda, are you talking about doing a test of the ignition coil? Here is a picture from my manual:


[IMG]local://upfiles/7626/8552C12669A74FAA904A2EB31F78B4CC.gif[/IMG]

Or are you talking about an Ignition Control Module Test? Picture below

[IMG]local://upfiles/7626/CEFA14602B944ADD88B6FF4B31D87A9E.gif[/IMG]

2) One of the most important questions. The VOM has a red wire and a black wire with probes on the end. Which color wire do I plug in where?
For example: in picture #1, my Haynes says to "touch the probes to primary terminals(A and C) of the coil, measure the primary resistance and compare your reading to chapter specifications" Which probe (black or red)do I touch in which terminals?

I'm sorry if I am slow with this. I just want to do it right and I am not sure exactly how.

Oh yeah I almost forgot. The connections on both sides of the coil (like in picture #1) were very tight. I couldn't even get the4-p connectorloose, but I knew I wouldn't really know what to do if I did get it loose, so I wanted to ask you guys how to use this VOM before I started sticking probes in it.

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

not to test the coil , but the blue wire from the coil to the (TCM ) .. there should be 4 wires at the coil connector,, ( blue. green, black/yellow, and yellow, )
the blue wire is the 1 we want to test right now ., the green wire comes from the ignitor to the coil .

perform the test that i suggested on earlier post

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

Wait a minute...now I'm really confused. Where is the TCM?From reading your above posts I gather you aretalking aboutthe connection there. "TCM" stands for Transmission Control Module right? I'm sorry...I'm new to all of this electrical stuff. This Haynes manual is good in some cases andsucks in others. I need to invest in a Helms.

Also...when I find the connection you are referring to,when I "chk for voltage between A5 ( positive Blue wire ) and A 13 ( negative brown/black wire )"do I place the red probe from the VOM on the positive blue wire and place the black probe from the VOM on the negative brown/black wire?

I am not trying to tie up deserthonda here, so if anyone else knows the answers to my questions, please feel free to answer at will!

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

Does anybody know where the TCM is?

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

I believe it's under the dash on the drivers side.... just a little box that resembles and ECU...

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

Thanks nasty. i was worried someone was gonna say that. I see aTON of wires down there. Some are going into a bright blue box right above the fuses.I have a feeling that bright blue box is the TCM. I really don't know how the heck to get in there and be able to do anything unless I remove the drivers seat and the dashboard. Plus I cannot tell which is the A(26) connector. I know desert says to check here first, but I am scared to start unpluggingthings unless I know what I am unplugging!
I'll try to take a picture or two and post to see if anyone thinks I am looking in the right place.

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

I took some pictures.

Is the bright blue box in these two pictures the TCM or am I way off? The picture was taken from under the steering wheel. As you can see, the fuses are below the bright blue box.


[IMG]local://upfiles/7626/DBC93B0D346F4775AAA2DD1BDE76F076.gif[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/7626/C82E50F7635045EB88596F2D203047C8.gif[/IMG]

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

I called a Honda Shop today (I'm taking my 2000 LX in there on tuesday for t-belt, water pump, & seals changed) and I asked the guy on the phone if he knew where the TCM was. He said his computer was showing that it is within the dash, kind of behind the radio. But he said that didn't sound right to him. He thought it was beneath the kick panel on the passenger side floorboard next to the ECU. He said it would be smaller than the ECU but look similar.
I'll try to get in there this weekend and pull back the carpet & kick panel and hope that is where it is! I'll let yall know.

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

Here's a '95 LX V-6...

#1 is the trans. controller.
#14 is the engine ECU.
You'll notice the picture isn't very good about pointing out exactly where it's located in the cartoon of the car... Maybe both are bolted to the underside of that plate #15??

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...sv40_f1505.gif

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

Thanks JimBlake! I think you are right. And thanks SO MUCH for the pic! That is what it looks like to me anyways, and that would confirm what the tech at the Honda shop told me. I am soooo glad I was wrong about it being the blue box in the pics I posted earlier. I think I would havehad toremove the drivers seat and the steering wheel to get my big230lb ass in there to work on it if it were under the driver's side dash!
Where did you get this pic from? Did it come from a Helm? The only reason I ask is Ihave not been able to find any kind of diagram such as this ineither Haynes or Chilton. I think I have come to the realization that I need to bite the bullet and spend the money on a Helm if I want a GOOD manual.

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

That's from hondaautomotiveparts.com

Other parts sites have the same pictures, so I bet they comefromHonda's electronic parts catalog.

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

That is a helpful piece of info about the part sites. I never thought to look there for diagrams.
OK so I never got aroung to removing the glove box and pulling back the carpet to acess the kickpanel where the TCM is located. However, I was checking the connections at the coil. I was able to disconnect the connection from the coil wire to the secondary winding terminal, I checked to make sure nothing looked amiss.I have attempted on two separate occasions todisconnectthe 4-P Connector, but I have been unsuccessfull. I spent about an hour trying yesterday and worked up a blister on my hand and got myself in a bad mood[:'(].
Anyways... ever since the first time I disconnected and re-connected the connection from coil to secondary winding terminal (about a week ago), I have not yet noticed the RPM fluctuations. I am almost wondering if I merely had a bad connection. I have attempted to reset the ECU a few times, but the CEL comes right back on within 3 seconds of starting the car. Ihave read before that I need to let the car warm up to normal before turning it off or giving it any gas to let the ECU "re-learn" what is going on. my question is:Should the CEL just pop right back on like it does? Or should it not come on until the engine becomes totally warmed up after i reset the ECU?

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

I'm kinda stretching here, since I've never owned a Honda V-6...

I guess ifthe CEL pops right back up, you haven't fixed the problem. What error is it showing? Both the same as before? Or maybe only the O2 sensor error comes back?

Wiring drawings in my Helm books show exactly where the tach signal comes from, but that's for my 4-cyl car... I gotta trust Desert about the tach signal coming from the coil in your V-6.

That one error seems to talk about the TCM having trouble seeing the tach signal. Since the tachometer acts up too, it makes sense the problem is common to both, namely the source of the signal.

The couple posts I made (elsewhere) about the ECU re-learning, those were basically talking about the idle-control system. I'm not aware of any kind of learning that's related to the tachometer signal.

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

I haven't re-checked the codes yet. I need to get down to AZ and see if it is still throwing the same 2 codes.I think I am probably just wishful thinking though. I bet I will still need to check the connections at the TCM like desert said. Iam just procrastinating! Thanks for the quick response!

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

Hey guys, newbie here.but I have some very good infofor you.

I have a 96 V-6 auto trans. EX accord having same problem. If I am not mistaken honda has a federal emmisions recall on this. I have the recall number at work, but I am home today. The other forums I have read bout this,states that most dealershave forgotten ordon't want to tell you about it, because its costly to honda, so yo have to bring in a little proof.The sites I was reading, customers came inhaving same complaint as me and you, and honda told them it would be X amount fo $$$. The customersaid it should be covered under the EPA recall. Most said the Honda service writer didn't know, couldn't find it, or was lieing. Butonce they told them to look under acertain recall #. Boom it was magiclly there. And in the sheet from Honda I have states that if thevechicle owner is having problems with ahonda dealer getting this fixed, call the regional office at a # andcomplaint will be solved withing 72 hours.

They will fix it, for 150,000 miles or 14 or 15 years. Honda settled w/ EPA over some emision problems. To my knowledge our complaint falls into the same catorgory. Honda will replace if needed, injectors, EGR valve, clean intake manifold, speed sensor, spugs, wires, distributor, cat. converter, and give you an oil change and many otherparts. My car was shooting a CEL and I reset it twice and it hasn't done it since. My car hasn't gave me a CELsince I figuredthis out. I found this out on a differant honda web site. Ieven have thehonda replacement sheet off of honda website at work.It tooka quiet of bit of searching for. If i am not mistaken it fits all-95 V-6 accords. 96 V-6 accords, and most honda's w/ v-6 engines up to 98 I think.

most people don't know about this is these forums, because it effects the V-6 engine. Since most of people on honda boards have 4cyl. Not to many know about this recall.

I got my 96-V6 w/ 94,000 miles on it. back in august. I bought it from my mother-in-law. needless to say all they did was oil changes apparently. I have had to replace both axels, did the timing belt, seals, water pump. Plugs, wires, cleaned my intake manifold. Just got through putting on a new A/C, condensor, drier, expansion valve, and front brakes. So now all I have to do is wait until, it shoots me another engine code and this thing should be ready for another 100,000 miles, I hope.

so start googling for it, and you will find it. Iam having some computer probelms, so i can't find it for you, but I know its out there. Good luck, I hope you have success.If I can remember, tomorrow, I will post the recall number.

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

its honda service bulletin 98-081 dated march 18, 2003
Google it and you will find a ton of info on it.

Go for 150,000 or 14 years.

I was wrong, honda has 45 days to resolve the customer's claim. starting from the date the customer first brings in vehicle with claiment.

I hope this helps.

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

Thanks for the info. I printed out the Service Bulletin after I googled it. Am I just supposed to bring this thing to any Honda dealer, show it to them, and tell them I want this done? Or do I have to find out the original Honda dealership from where the car was purchased?

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

i really don't have a clue, I haven't had the opportunity to deal with it yet. I don't think you would have to go to the original dealer though. I would think you would bring it in to the dealer, tell them the cars complaint, and I would ask them if it covered under the recall. But I would have a hard copy, with me to try and prove my case.

Let me know how it goes, I am just waiting for mine to shoot me another CEL, and I will take mine to a dealer here in Memphis, and see what happens. Mine started doing the RPM needle bouncing and studdering again today, but no CEL.

mine will do it for a day to a couple of days, then it will go away for a week or two then start over. I even had it do it for a trip to work. Stoped by Autozone, and bought me PVC valve, installed it there in the parking lot, and didn't do it again for a week. So I was thinking it was the PVC valve going bad. Then i found this service bulletin about a week later.

I only had my honda for about 9 months, it was doing this when I first bought it. But it was so infrequent, I wasn't going to take it to a shop, because I know it wouldn't do it for them. So I was just going to try and hunt this problem down myself. But now I setting back waiting, until a CEL comes on. I even thought about taking it there just to see if they will fix it even though my CEL isn't on.

good luck, let me know how it goes.

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

My problem now is the RPM needle bounce hasn't been there in weeks! I am going to try to get it by AZ to have the codes pulled again to see if it still shows the P0725 or if it is now just the O2 sensor code. I am wondering if I just had a bad connection at the coil.

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

My wife called me on my way to work this morning and said the car would not start. She finally got it started while I was on the phone with her, but I called her back &told her to go back home and I would pick her up because I'd rather have the car at home in the garage than stranded at her work. She said it would sit there and turn over and over but not start. She said on about the 6th attempt, it finally started. All of the electrical in the car was working fine (radio, etc..) while it was running. I didn't have time this morning to take a look at it cause I had to get her to work and I had to be at work myself.
The RPM fluctuations have not been happening hardly at all. I mean like the needle may bounce once or twice on a 1 hour drive but that's it.
It has been seeming like it takes longer to start though. I am used to the engine only "spinning" about 4 times then firing up. Recently it has seemed to take about 6 "spins" to fire up.
Does this sound like a faulty ignition coil?
Is there a good way to test if the coil itself is bad?
A while back deserthonda told me to check the connection at the TCM. I have not done that yet because I am unsure of my abilities to locate the correct wires to test (I only have a general idea of where the TCM is to begin with..I don't even know for sure.) I didn't think this test would tell me it the coil itself was bad.
Also FYI...the fuel filter was changed about 6 months ago.
Any help/suggestions will be appreciated!

RE: RPM fluctuations (Trouble codes from AutoZone now posted!)
 

Well...I thought I had extensively searched the forum on this topic before posting this thread, however I just found some more threads after I did a search on "ignition coil." It seems that the general concensus with 95-97 V6 owners has been to replace the coil. I, for one, am not the type that enjoys replacing parts before diagnosis. However, I have found two threadsdescribing the tach bounce problem identical to my own. In both cases, theowner replaced the coil and problem was solved.
I am at a dilemma now. Do I spend the $72 atAdvance Auto parts for a new coil? Or do I attempt more diagnosis and spend hours of time and possible frustration?