Hello everyone...

Car's a 1994 Honda Accord DX Coupe, 2.2L I4, 5-Speed Manual.

This problem has been around for months... when you start it, it runs beautifully. Revs great (although tends to idle rather high... starts at about 1700RPM but that might be an autochoke type thing -- Wisconsin does get cold)... no check engine light... no unusual noises. However, after about 20-30 seconds, it'll just die. No cough, no sputtering, no shaking, no different than if I flipped the key off. Once that happens, the car will not start for a couple hours. You can crank all you want, nothing will happen. Still gets fuel, but no spark.

There's plenty of fuel at the rails. Fuel pump relay clicks in, keeps pressurizing the entire cranking time. I've already done that relay "cold joint" resoldering.

So to summarize...
Runs great... for 20 seconds, then dies with no clues and won't restart.
No check engine light.
No fuel delivery problems.
When it dies it stops getting a spark

Any ideas?

 

There are two possibilities; intermittent keyswitch assy that periodically fails to provide power to ignition system or intermittent coil or ignitor that opens. Keyswitch seems much more likely.

Are Check Engine and Oil Pressure lights lost when engine stoppage occurs? If yes, then keyswitch is the problem. If CEL and OP lights come on when engine dies, then coil or ignitor is more likely. There is a DIY on distinguishing between coil and ignitor fault.

good luck

 

Wow, first reply and already I'm getting great answers... I like this place.

I tried a different coil from the junkyard, it acts the same.

The check engine light never comes on except for the bulb check. Never thought about the oil light.

So if the oil light stays OFF, that means the keyswitch is faulty? (it "thinks" you switched it back to off?)

 

Are all of the maintenance items up to date? Spark plugs, dist cap, dist. rotor, etc? Check that all ends of the battery cable are clean and have secure connections.

If the key switch fails, there will be no power to the coil.

When the car is not starting, unplug the connector going to the coil. When the key is in the II position, the blk/yel wire going to the coil should have 12V when probing to ground. If you have 12V, then the ignition switch is ok.

Ignitor would be the last thing to check. They can fail without setting off the check engine light.

 

If CEL and Oil Light stay off when engine dies, the keyswitch is near certain. Check suggested by PAHonda should be performed to confirm.

good luck

 

if fuel supply is ok,, and fuel pressure is around 40 psi than it sounds like a possible ignitor to me ...

 

I just noticed the "maintenence required" chib is orange, but it's been like that forever... and the actual "engine problem" light isn't on.

Gonna go check the black/yellow wire now...

Edit: Ok. The black/yellow DOES get power when the key is in II position.
Listening from down by the steering column, when you turn the key to II you can hear a relay click (fuel pump pressurizes), clicks again after a couple seconds (fuel pump stop). Then when you go to crank it (III), you can hear two rapid clicks (I'm assuming main and fuel pump relays).



Preh. I can't even get it to start once anymore. 10 hours apparently isn't long enough.

 

If you're sure you have fuel pressure (crack banjo bolt to check for pressure w/ strong spray of fuel), and blk/yel wire at distributor has power, loss of spark is very likely the problem. Confirm loss of spark w/ a timing light on a spark lead. No flashes mean no spark.

For no spark w/ power to the distributor, problem is either coil or ignitor. There is a DIY to determine which.

good luck

 

There is no spark, I confirmed that with the standard "hold a spark plug and don't shock yourself" testing.

Coil was replaced, no change.

Wait. Black/Yellow at the distributor? I only checked the black/yellow at the ignition coil >_<

Where is the ignitor, and what's the DIY to test it?

 

Managed to get it to start. It died immediately. Oil pressure light came on.