Hello everybody,

​​​I have multiple electrical issues and I do have a 98-02 service manual but that manual doesn't apply for my model with the F18B2 engine so all colors of the wires etcetera are different.

Can anybody help me find the correct manual?

Best regards,

Marco H

 

I don't know where to find a pdf for your accord. Maybe ebay for the EU region?

We may be able to help depending on what electrical issues you are having. The wire colors are different, but you should be able to use a volt meter to figure out each wire's function.

 

Thank you for the response! I looked everywhere and bought one on ebay but none of them is correct, they have all different engine codes what seem to be the problem.

And yes a multimeter can be very handy, measured 31 wires that lead into my dashboard gauges because the odometer, speedometer and rpm meter are not always working but I can't figure out which one leads to which meter etcetera because of the colors.
They do have something in common that causes the problem because sometimes they all work or they all won't. When they don't, I have to turn off the key and turn it on again until they work. Then they keep working until the key is turned to off again.

I don't know what to do about that anymore and besides that I have a problem with my power window on the driver's side that sometimes won't go up and passengers side door locks that doesn't work remotely anymore....

Would be great if someone can help, I'm stuck without the right electrical diagram.

 

The 2000's accords don't have a wire that drives the gauge, they are driven by a controller using a digital signal. I'd look for G501 in the shop manual you have to find and clean that ground. The problem can be a bad solder joint on the circuit board, and failed circuit board component, or a loose/corroded connection on the ground side of that circuit. I'm pretty sure black wires are used universally a a ground, so you can try to do some electrical testing.

The rubber track can cause enough resistance to stop the window from rolling up. Try some silicone grease in the track to see if this helps.

Do the passenger side locks work with the interior switch? Not sure if the 2000 accord had a key for the passenger door, but does the key work to lock/unlock the door? Is the issue on the front, rear, or both passenger doors?

 

I guess the signal that drives the gauge is going through a wire, I did measure a couple of wires with only 1-2v on it. (contact on, engine off)

Thank you, I did found G501 after disassembling the center console. There was 0 resistance on it but I cleaned it anyway along with another one located near the srs module. I already did the same with 6 other ground locations including the one for the emc at the engine compartment and another one I found on the hood handle nearby the drivers door but nothing changed unfortunately.

I do have to mention that the problem with the odometer and gauges appeared 9 out of ten times before I disconnected the connectors that go into the dashboard gauges and only 1 out of ten times after connecting them again... I couldn't see any bad solder joint but I have zero experience with circuit boards.

Yes, all black wires I found where used for ground. So did red/black, brown, orange, red/yellow and a light blue one that all are going into the dashboard gauges box.

Window relay or motor isn't reacting when window doesn't go up. I don't hear any click and even when I pull the window before operating the switch it won't go up unfortunately. I will lubricate it once I solved the issue but unfortunately that's not what causes it.

Yes the issue is for both passenger doors that are normally operated remotely. They work fine from the inside.

Thanks again for your help and excuse me for my bad English, I do need some help from Google now and then.

 

For the gauge cluster, it is possible you have a loose connection on some pins, or you have some corrosion making a poor connection at the connector. There are some kits that have a pins of the same thickness as your connector. You may find one of the female connectors is open too wide?

The wiring diagram for the remote door lock shows the wireless receiver/antenna as part of the passenger MICU. That passenger MICU could be faulty. Do you have a second remote to try on the remote door lock just to rule out the remote? The remote is not likely, but worth a shot.

For the window issue, this could be a problem with the window switch or the window motor. You'd have to remove the door panel to access the electrical connector for the window motor. The motor should have 2 thicker wires that will supply power and ground to run the window motor. Power and ground will switch depending if you hit window up or down.

 

It has never been apart before as far as I can tell so it seem unlikely that a conrector spontaneously got too wide. Besides that I did ruled out a bad connection before I had unplugged the connectors because the problem is there or it isn't. When the gauges are working I can hit it and pull wires as much as I like but they will keep working. Same counts for the other way around, they won't work until I turn off the igniting switch and turn it on again.
That's why I thought that it couldn't be a bad connection and it must be a relay or something. Unfortunately there isn't a relay in that circuit. Could it be the igniting switch itself or the ECM and if so, how do I test that?

I don't have a second remote but this one is only a few years old because I broke the old one. (bought original at the Honda dealer)
The passenger MICU, is that the passenger multiplex control unit? Is there any way to test it?

I already tried another switch from the junkyard for the power window but that didn't solve it. The door panel is already off but I didn't take off the plastic yet to gain access to the motor, don't know how to put the plastic back in place when I do... I also couldn't find the power window relay but now I see it must be at the passenger side so I will have a look at that again or will it be the window motor for sure when the switch is ruled out?

Update edited: I don't seem to have a multiplex control unit or any relays on the passengers side. There are only fuses.
Six months ago I disassembled the dashboard on the passengers side because I wanted to change the interior filter. Couldn't find any manual or YouTube video that was correct for my model so I took everything out that took me hours to discover that this model doesn't have a interior filter....

P.s. There is a multiplex control unit on the driver's side in the fuse box, a white one.

 

Took the door plastic off and measured the wires to conclude that it indeed must be the window motor. There's going 12v to the motor when operating the switch but motor doesn't always react so I'm going to figure out how to replace it.

 

Well, the motor is fine but the circuit board of the motor isn't. Going to see if I can get that fixed without buying a whole new regulator. 😅

Circuit board of the power window motor.

 

@PAhonda , are you still there to help?

I couldn't fix the circuit board of the power window motor and a whole new aftermarket product that should've been compatible wasn't so I have to find one on a junkyard.

I didn't look further into the lock but I do have an update about the gauges.
The gauges are still working most of the times but the engine didn't start twice now after turning the key. When I turned the key to off and tried again the engine did start. That's why I'm starting to suspect the ignition key or the combination switch but I have no idea how they work.

What's your opinion and do you or somebody else have any idea how and what to test? Any help will be appreciated, thanks in advance!