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I'm around to help. When you say the engine wouldn't start, did the starter not spin the engine when you turned the key> Or did the starter spin the engine and the engine would not start on it's own?
I'm around to help. When you say the engine wouldn't start, did the starter not spin the engine when you turned the key> Or did the starter spin the engine and the engine would not start on it's own?
The ignition switch gets power from the battery (through a fuse) and sends power to multiple locations depending on where you turn the key.
The ignition switch does send a power signal to the starter, but the power signal goes through a starter relay before reaching the starter. The starter on your car could have a bad solenoid, or the power signal is not making it to the starter. Only way to know is to test for power at the starter on the small wire that is blk/wht on US accords at that time. If you heard a click at the starter then silence, you can almost be assured the power signal made it to the starter, but testing with a volt meter/test light is more definitive.
If you go to replace the ignition switch, all you need the electrical portion to replace. I'd go with a honda OEM part if the cost isn't prohibitive. I try not to use most aftermarket parts, but will use NGK/Denso if less expensive or readily available.
The ignition switch gets power from the battery (through a fuse) and sends power to multiple locations depending on where you turn the key.
The ignition switch does send a power signal to the starter, but the power signal goes through a starter relay before reaching the starter. The starter on your car could have a bad solenoid, or the power signal is not making it to the starter. Only way to know is to test for power at the starter on the small wire that is blk/wht on US accords at that time. If you heard a click at the starter then silence, you can almost be assured the power signal made it to the starter, but testing with a volt meter/test light is more definitive.
If you go to replace the ignition switch, all you need the electrical portion to replace. I'd go with a honda OEM part if the cost isn't prohibitive. I try not to use most aftermarket parts, but will use NGK/Denso if less expensive or readily available.
Thank you for the advice and yes I do understand that but it's not what I meant or was trying to ask.
Is it theoretically possible that the problem with the gauges and now with starting the engine is related and caused by the ignition switch or the combination switch?
I mean, both issues only appear and disappear with turning the key. The problem with the gauges can be solved by switching between I.ACC and II.ON and that also counts for the problem with starting the engine.
It could be coincidence but the problem with the gauges almost disappeared after taking the dash apart and I never had a problem with starting the engine before I did that...
Some items on the gauge get power from the ignition switch, so it is possible your ignition switch is causing some problems on the cluster. It could be a loose connection at the wire harness, but most ignition switch kits have the harness too.
I'm not 100% sure the gauge problem will be fixed, as the gauge has some other power sources without doing testing, but it is probably worth a shot.
@PAhonda Condenser
I came across this condenser and the plug protection looks black so I assume it must have been pretty hot.
I cleaned the bold and measure zero resistance on the condenser plate but almost 2 Ohm at the plug, is that normal? I have no idea what this thing does but I did figure out it's part of the cabin control unit...
