The fuel pump. The filter could be an issue

 

Had 52 psi when testing the fuel pressure so didnt see any reason to replace the fuel pump

 

Yea that's not anything I would replace either I was just stating you've done everything but that. As I said prior it's something that's been over looked and it just needs to be found. Hopefully someone else has a different angle for you

 

The P2138 code is for a problem in the acceleration pedal position sensor (APP sensor) circuit. The problem can be the APP sensor, the wiring, or the PCM. Most of the time the APP sensor is bad, but this is not the only reason to get that code.

Was any work done on your car right before you had this issue? Are you still having identical symptoms after your recent work to repair the issue?

The APP sensor is bolted to the firewall and not the throttle body. The cable from the gas pedal connected to the APP sensor. This is a component of the drive by wire system.

I and some others on here are confused on the part you replaced. Did you install a new throttle body or the throttle position sensor that is bolted to the throttle body? Or did you install a new APP sensor that is bolted near the windshield on the passenger side of the vehicle?

Can you give us the part number of the item you replaced?

You may not get an immediate code, because your car has to pass some readiness tests before certain trouble codes can get set. Try reading temporary codes if your scanner is capable, because a bad APP sensor might set a temporary code.

 

Unfortunately no one else has chimed in

 

You never answered my question about what part you replaced. Please read my previous post.

 

Sorry I didnt see your post. We replaced the throttle body and APP sensor. There has been SO MUCH work done on this car, it has been a nightmare. I would have to look back and find the part numbers. We did have a new symptom pop up this weekend though, the battery light started coming on so we hooked the scanner up to it and went for a drive and when you are driving it is not charging, when you stop it begins charging again. No code though. The alternator was still under warranty so we just went ahead and replaced it because it was a Duralast Reman from Autozone

 

Is the new alternator charging the system at idle and while driving?

 

Sometimes, while driving and you take your foot off the gas it stops charging but when you come to a stop it charges. The replacement alternator is no different than the old one. After some research we are looking into the ELD. I can affect not only the idle but the charging

 

You may want to check if the crank pulley separated. The crank pulley is really 2 metal disck with rubber "gluing" them together. That rubber can crack, where the inner disk bolted to the crank will spin, but the outer ring/disk doesn't move. Get some whiteout, paint, or marker, and draw a line from the center bolt to the outer edge of the pulley. Drive the car a bit where your car isn't charging, then see if your one line is now 2 lines not connected.

You may also want to try a voltage drop test from the large post on the alternator to the + battery post with the engine running. Be very careful around moving belts/pulleys when doing this type of testing. The voltage drop should be very close to zero. Try raising the engine rpm and see if your voltage drop remains the same.