...Is the crank supposed to have splines on the same surface the key notch is on?



Key is still in as you can see...


Here's the pulley, backed the bolt the rest of the way out and it wobbled big zero's on the way out...




Bolt carnage...

This couldn't come at a worse time of course. The one good thing is at least the kids are outta school for the next few days, but we're down to a borrowed miata until I get this corrected, er if it can be.

I just don't know if splines are missing...

:chug:

 

There are no "splines", the key is what holds it.

 

Ok, so theoretically I should be able to extract the rest of the bolt and assuming the crank isn't damaged throw a new one on with a new key and I'd be mostly ok?


I gotta figure out how to get the old hey out.... thats going to be fun.

wish I had the funds to go ahead and do the timing belt and water pump while I'm this deep in the motor, but alas, I be a poor broke hick... lol

Thanks for letting me know, there were marks around both the diameters that made both look like there had been splines somewhere, but I guess it was just from chewing up the key...

:chug:

 

It looks like key is intact so engine timing was not lost.

Bolt remnant may be loose since bolt tension is released. It may be possible to back the bolt end out w/ a sharp steel pick and hammer applying taps to force the bolt to turn CCW,...if loose.

If not loose, then use of a reverse drill bit and EZ-out may work to remove. Suggest reviewing numerous videos on youtube on this subject to gain experiences and insights of those who've done this job.

Another option is weld a nut to the top of the bolt remnant. This can be accomplished, even when the bolt surface is below flush. However, it takes experience and welding expertise. Definitely not a first time job to try.

You may want to consider a professional shop to do this job, as long as they have experience w/ difficult bolt removal.

Let forum know how this problem is resolved.

FWIW, it appears the bolt was cracked sometime ago (rust on exterior perimeter) and crack eventually progressed through entire bolt. Overtensioning (probably w/ powerful air impact) is likely reason for cracking.

Good Luck

 

Good to know on the timing... I'm worried about how to get the damn key out and replaced...

Thinking brother and I are gonna get at it with an ezout tomorrow... I'll try to see if it'll back out first. gonna hit it with some bp break loose stuff...

I like the weld idea, but lack the welder... The shop deal ain't gonna happen...

I wonder if that lends credit to the timing belt being replaced...

My brother and I will throw the next couple days into it and see what we can do, with the way the bolt head walked out I worry about the threads... I guess we'll find out.


:chug:

 

You can rig needle-nose vise grips w/ an extended bolt (6"+) to replace the adjustment bolt. Add a large socket below the bolt head and you have a crude slide hammer to pull the woodruff key. See following video by briansmobile1 for guidance. Different application but same principle.


good luck

 

As far as the key just pull the crank pulley off and then with the engine at TDC remove and replace the key. The bolt is the biggest concern. The best way as mentioned is to get a grade 10 17mm head bolt, cut the head of the bolt off and weld it to the broken bolt. The welding does two things, one it obviously gives you a new head to work with, and two the heating the old bolt with experience during the weld may loosen it enough to get it out. If it does not come out the it is time to look for another crank.

 

Welding uses a nut w/ open center to allow welding deposit to the broken bolt end. I don't see how you could possibly weld a cut-off bolt head to the flush or below flush bolt end.

good luck

 

Remove the harmonic balancer and smooth out what is available on the broken bolt with a grinder. He will need a smaller head bolt which is why we use a high grade 17mm. This allows a solid bead to be welded to the broken bolt shaft without welding it to the crank. I have done this several times over the years, but fortunately Honda crank pulley bolts rarely brake so we don't have to do it too often.

In the picture it looks like he has a little metal to play with. Unfortunately it is usually a one shot deal, otherwise it is crank and bearing time.

 

So the rest of the bolt backed out after minimal effort... had been treating it with some bg slicky stuff and started to drill the hole which turned the bolt, eventually it bottomed out and we were able to get the hole big enough to get a small ez out on it and it backed right out. The threads on the crank are apparently undamaged which was a big concern for me.





Also managed to get the key loose and out, I failed to get another pic of the pulley and the chunk out of it right next to the keyway on the motor side of the pulley.


anyhow, now to acquire parts and throw it back together... yays!


:chug: