I would think anytime you turn the ignition, the pump should prime.

Check the fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay.

 

The fuel pump only gets voltage for a few seconds to prime/pressure the fuel system.

Here is how to test.

The fuel pump connector has 5 pins. Top row are pins 1,2,and3. Bottom row are pins 4 and 5.

Pin 5 is a blk/yel wire. Unplug the fuel pump electrical connector. Use you volt meter or test light between the blk/yel wire and some bare metal nearby for your ground. Turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. The blk/yel wire should get 12V for about 2 seconds about the time the check engine light does the bulb check. Let us know what you find.

 

put it back together, ran until warm, died gave code P0505. Unplugged IAC cleaned contacts plugged back in, ran for a few minutes died again. reset code let sit, came back idled again for 5 minutes, code came back.

 

What are the 3 wire colors on the IAC electrical connector? When you replaced the IAC, was the replacement a Honda OEM part or aftermarket?

 

At this point i haven't taken off the entire manifold, just the throttle body, but as it is now, I might as well, what's 5-6 more bolts and another gasket?
I can tell you wire colors perhaps on monday it was tight enough that it didn't move from its plugged in position and still factory wrapped all the way to the plug.
Very hard to see low and behind the manifold...

Part replaced was PUENGSI aftermarket, looked identical, couldn't see any differences hand in hand. Went with fastest delivery.

Should i try another distributor, because they all use the same picture, just different lead times, and prices between 25-342$.
StandardMotor YCT NewYall Qualinsist AutoKola RoadFar Vooviro SarahQ YHA JJ ZR MGPRO VioletLisa UncleJohnny Sawyer WLSupply
MYParts CorrectPartner UltraPower WalkerProducts WVE Beck/Arnley. (these are all from Amazon, Ebay, and Rock Auto)

Part replacement number listed: 36460-PAA-AL21

Now, If someone insists that the HONDA OEM part, at a staggering $455 from the next nearest dealer(*) about 50 miles away WILL ABSOLUTELY WITHOUT A DOUBT fix the problem.....
(*)
The Honda e-store doesn't show that part available at my local, and being Saturday the parts dept is closed so i can't verify that.
The most ridiculous part of this is that prior to choosing 'my local dealer' for availability, the part was listed at $21.

 

I don't think you should replace any parts until you troubleshoot the code.

The code can mean the sensor, wiring, or PCM; so a P0505 doesn't necessarily mean the IACV is bad.

On the 94-97 accords, it was possible to switch the electrical connector for the throttle position sensor and the map sensor electrical connector. I think the IACV connector could be accidentally switched with the IAT sensor, but I am not 100% sure.

You should be able to pull back a bit on the wrap at the plug to see wire colors.

For IACV: Blk, yel/blk, and blk/blu
For MAP: yel/red, grn/wht, and red/grn
For TPS: grn/blk, red/blk, and yel/blu

 

PAhonda;

Yes - For IACV: Blk, yel/blk, and blk/blu - This plug is Grey oblong behind the plenum and cannot reach ANY other Plug.
Yes - For MAP: yel/red, grn/wht, and red/grn - This plug is Grey round and while the harness WOULD allow it to reach the TPS...
Yes - For TPS: grn/blk, red/blk, and yel/blu - This plug is Blue round and will NOT reach to swap out with the MAP...

All of these are still well wrapped and connected to stay points with the original connectors.

 

Tried to run live data, but since the issue is it not staying running, most of what i've seen is not an issue, though during these short starts one start actually ran long enough (15-20 seconds) to raise the temp about 10 degrees. But what does that prove or not prove as it has run for miles in weeks past.

There are no codes to go on anymore.
Original code was O2, those were changed, it ran better but then the IAC codes came, Replaced the IAC and it ran for 3 days over 50 miles then dies at a stop light.
Then just won't run for more than seconds, except the day we put it on the dolly, when it started and i drove around the parking lot into the shop. and the multiple times it ran in between plugging and unplugging things.

Frustrating.

If I bring it back to a shop, they are going to plug in, not find codes, and start Gue$$ing until its fixed. I can't afford that for this vehicle.

I get not knowing the root cause creates a guessing game, but right now that's exactly what we are doing anyway, and not getting anywhere.

If the car's own diagnostics have no idea what the problem is then I am absolutely willing to take dark shots from anyone who has a best guess. I and my brothers are out of them.

other things maybe worth mentioning....
3 weeks of Searching other forums, found info on SRS is not an issue for the car running,
LED lights being added into system (specifically the reverse lights) shutting down the system by blowing fuses, fuses not an issue, as the car ran for days before I new they were there, or does it?
there are LEDs in the reading lights and were in the doors
( i took those out to not kill the battery as the doors have been open for days on end.)
MAP @30 drops to 10 when running, apparently 28 and 9 are norm but i'm going to guess that's not an issue
TPS @9.4% reads 90% at floor, numbers increase/decrease smoothly through range
there were a few voltage readings which i'm unfamiliar with but i'll continue reading up on all the things this ZR13s will read.

It just needs to run, and sadly, it will when it wants to. It's got to be something simple and stupid, and intermittent just is a frustrating position to be in.
I miss engines that only wanted fuel air spark and a heavy foot. And tuning was as simple as maintaining cleanliness and turning a screw.

 

I don't see where you narrowed down the problem to lack of spark or lack of fuel.

Did you try the starting fluid test?

Have you tried pulling a spark plug wire and use a spark tester while someone tries to start the car. You can also use a screwdriver and get it close to a bare metal bolt. See if you have enough spark to jump the gap.

 

get to shop, starting fluid can in hand, get in and start car, dies, start car, dies. start, pull forward, dies, coast out of shop... wait for brother to show up.

Brother arrives, I tell him to grab the starting fluid, he looks under hood, I get in and start the car, and the car runs.... This is my life of intermittence, i start cursing... one minute, i get out look at him, cursing some more, shrug, two minutes...
we just look at car in disbelief, three minutes... get back in car rev a few times, sounds fine, let idle,
He asks if it is still high idle, it is high at about 1200, he said he heard something click , car dies. No CEL.

restart dies, restart dies.

So, grab can again, restart, starts to die, he sprays, it sputters as long as he sprays, ... there's your answer.