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I did record a run although today was flawless from start to temp. Will (hopefully) drive to/from work tomorrow.
Frame 1 of 20 after fans have kicked on at temp ranges given if not steady @ idle for duration with no CEL or idle bounce
Fuel Sys 1 -- CL
Fuel Sys 2 -- n/a
Calc Load -- 30.2% range 28-30
RPM -- 1008 only slightly lower when fans kicked on
ECT -- 199°F
STFT B1 -- -5.5% Ranged 8 - 2
LTFT B1 -- 2.3% Ranged 2.8 - 2.2
map -- 9 while running (30 when not)
spark adv -- 7.0°
IAT -- 102°F
TPS 9.4% also tested this with engine off 9.4@ no touch - 90@ floor with smooth movement through that range (slack play in both cables)
o2s1 -- 0.760v -7.0%
o2s2 -- 0.740v -7.8%
SO, this is how i found the idle screw. It was screwed all the way in tight. Loosening only increases the idle. How am I supposed to set the base idle when 900 is screwed all the way in? What else can be done to lower the idle? (Apologies, I have no idea how to make these pictures smaller.)
I wanna throw a flag on the play for different posts about WHAT to pull when doing base idle, and WHERE they're located. (DIY thread with correction #13, and picture showing evap on manifold and not on canister on firewall ).
Pulling the "evap" on the manifold does nothing to the idle if that is what it is, as i can't find multiple items on the manifold as there is no 180° to show items on the other/actual front side where that plug would be. but in looking for its placement on youtube, one video shows it UNDER THE CAR, IN FRONT of the gas tank.
There is also a 'sensor'? on the manifold on the driver side that i can't find in diagrams either, so I can't identify that as well. While the internet is a great place to find info, it's also a bloated place that is hard to parse truth.
The EVAP purge valve is dead center behind the valve cover close to the PCV hose. The rest of the EVAP system is under the car. You just disconnect the electrical connector to disable. According to the shop manual, that is all you need to set the base idle. Investing in the 98-02 shop manual I referenced earlier will help you with these items vs information on the web.
Your issue is strange, because your fuel trims are normal, but your car is behaving like it has a vacuum leak.
It is still idling at 1k unless the fan or a/c loads are on.
We've sprayed carbs cleaner and starting fluid all over the engine without it sputtering or revving. With the idle screw all the way in, it is very quiet, but as soon as it is turned you can hear the air going through it.
After driving for a few days now with the aftermarket relay in, the idle hunt while cruising has almost disappeared. When reaching work or home it will hunt a time or 3 and return to idle.
While the intermittent symptom and the code seem to be right, I have to get the idle down some kind of way.
New Twist this morning. Gave a P0730 coming into work this morning. last light before I pulled in it would engage disengage, rev, stutter engage-disengage, rev stutter, engage etc while inching forward in traffic. Checked the fluid, which was full, red looking on the stick but darker on a rag. Idle is still high.
Transmission hunting for gears more than engine is hunting for idle now. Couldn't even get it back to the shop this morning, 2nd gear only after a mile or so, no reverse by the time i had limped home, idle hunting from 1-2k hard. Got home plugged in the reader, car dropped to 1k smooth idle, blinking D4.
02-27-2022, 08:57 PM
