Starts, then dies- finally runs
#1
Starts, then dies- finally runs
2000 EX- V6. Took a little trip yesterday. At about 200 miles I stopped for food. When I went to start, the engine started, then died after a couple of seconds. That happened about 4 or 5 times. Finally I was able to keep it going by pumping it. I held the brake and backed out while holding the revs up a bit. The car smoothed out quickly and I've had no problems with it since. A bit of bad gas maybe?
#2
Many of the 6th gen v6's had/have an issue with "heat soak".
Car at normal op temp.....shut the car off for ~20 minutes, re-start the car and bad/no idle, have to hold the gas down for a minute or two, dies, sometimes you will get a mis-fire code.....then after a few seconds the car clears up and everything is fine
There is a TSB about this issue.
What to do - well that depends on how far you want to go.
Car at normal op temp.....shut the car off for ~20 minutes, re-start the car and bad/no idle, have to hold the gas down for a minute or two, dies, sometimes you will get a mis-fire code.....then after a few seconds the car clears up and everything is fine
There is a TSB about this issue.
What to do - well that depends on how far you want to go.
#4
Those would be two different issues IMO.
I'd get the codes for the SRS - 9 out of 10 times it will be the drivers side latch but don't do anything until you get the codes and test.......PS, many have cleaned the drivers side latch and got it to work again. IF it is the latch and cleaning does not work/don't want to do - a new one is ~$75.
I'd get the codes for the SRS - 9 out of 10 times it will be the drivers side latch but don't do anything until you get the codes and test.......PS, many have cleaned the drivers side latch and got it to work again. IF it is the latch and cleaning does not work/don't want to do - a new one is ~$75.
#7
Also, check for engine codes to possibly help with the stalling issue. A stuck open EGR valve, for example, could cause your car to stall out when the engine is cold and idling.
Please don't blindly replace the EGR valve based on the above statement. You'll have to diagnose the problem if/when it returns.
Please don't blindly replace the EGR valve based on the above statement. You'll have to diagnose the problem if/when it returns.
#9
I've heard and read all kinds of things on this issue. Heck wait a month before you do anything and they will have switched back to "summer blend" gas and I'd be willing to bet a cup of coffee the issue will not come back until the next round of "winter blend" gas....yes the gas "makers" change the blend of gas for winter and summer. I've picked up 2~3 MPG's in the last two fill ups so I pretty sure they have already changed.
Some have reported that just replacing the T-stat with a new OE one solved the issue.
Testing the ECT is a pretty simple process......
So at this point - mid March - I'd do nothing and keep driving. If the issue comes back in two or three weeks from now and continues into the warmer months (summer blend gas), then I would start to think about what to do.
I don't and can't call "BS" on the ECT - I will say that is a new "answer" I have not seen before.
Some have reported that just replacing the T-stat with a new OE one solved the issue.
Testing the ECT is a pretty simple process......
So at this point - mid March - I'd do nothing and keep driving. If the issue comes back in two or three weeks from now and continues into the warmer months (summer blend gas), then I would start to think about what to do.
I don't and can't call "BS" on the ECT - I will say that is a new "answer" I have not seen before.
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RAY101
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