Fuel pump issue, fuel pump relay, etc...?
What about clogged up fuel filter?

 

3p<DEL>

Did I mention my issue was INTERMITTENT?

Fuel pump issue, fuel pump relay, etc...? Possibly? I pulled the relay, it wouldn't give the start up prime, (I asked if having anything else unplugged would affect the startup prime sequence) I checked for broken solder joints, smelled for electrical burn, but this thing was pristine, I forgot to take a picture. I have two other video's between there on random days when it just started and ran for no apparent reason as we did nothing to it. But, plug it back in, and it does the prime, starts every time, and even ran for 4 minutes just a few hours ago. Could that be the Problem? Maybe.
What about a clogged up fuel filter? Again, Possible. But, not likely. After driving it to a shop across town eh, 30 miles from home, then from there to the shop here to change the IAC out. then for two days commute home 60+ miles, Im gonna say no, but I'll humor you, and pull it, in due time. Could this be the Problem? Sure.
2p<DEL>
Regardless, it's intermittent whatever it is, and is the reason i came here for objective alternative ideas. I haven't found any other posts that follow my symptoms. Nor can I recreate mine often enough to narrow down what is faulty without a code or a flame or a puff of smoke, an acrid smell, a leak, a hiss or a whine. Did you read the part where my brother heard something click before it died this morning?

I try to follow the troubleshooting norms but it keeps changing symptoms and repeatability.
MLS<DEL>
Do you have a method?

 

You are getting it narrowed down. You have a fuel delivery problem. Replacing items like the distributor wouldn't have solved the problem.

The problem can be anywhere from the PCM/Ignition switch, the fuel relay, wiring or the fuel pump.

You mentioned the fuel pump didn't prime when the car wouldn't start, so I would start with electrical testing at the fuel pump with a 12V test light. See my post #14 with wire colors. Keep the electrical connector to the fuel pump plugged in. Back-probe the blk/yel wire from behind the electrical connector. Find a bare metal bolt for a ground. The light should turn on when the fuel pump primes with the key check. Let us know if you have power to the fuel pump when the car starts and when the car doesn't start.

 

It didn't prime when i took the relay out, sorry for my confusing language. Yes in both posts #22 and way back in #10.


Lets start over.
It was said that telling everything you can about the issue will net better replies. I think it is to much to look at, and confusing.

Let me be Simple.

When everything is plugged in this car starts EVERY TIME I TURN THE KEY. It just won't stay running, most of the time. This isn't a won't start issue, it's a won't stay running often enough to feel safe driving it anywhere issue.

Going on 4 weeks now, I can't find another forum post or video of my issue. I'm working with best theories for what my issue is similar to. But nobody else has their car start and run randomly during testing.

I'm here because this issue isn't giving any clues, is intermittent, and hasn't responded to the normal fixes.

Now that all the CEL codes have been dealt with, It's Obvious now, that something is turning off the fuel pump after it starts, but what would do that and why?

I'm looking for an ABNORMAL SOLUTION TO AN ABNORMAL ISSUE. It's frustrating.

 

pulled the relay this morning again to triple check for anything visually abnormal, brushed all the contacts and plugged it back in, now i don't hear the click or the pump engage, cel light goes on and off as normal.
CAR STILL STARTS EVERY TIME. although it did sound as if the battery was starting to wan, so I'll put it on trickle on down times.
checked voltage at the pump, its not getting signal/voltage. pulled the relay on my way out the door and re-soldered it when I got home. another day to wait for fruition.
will try to update around lunch, got higher priority work in the AM.

Will be looking to bypass the relay tomorrow so i can work on it from home to speed things up, <pending the solder fix/failure>, and while waiting on one to be ordered. Got a favorite brand name?

This one car family $'iz getting old after a month.

 

""The problem can be anywhere from the PCM/Ignition switch, the fuel relay, wiring or the fuel pump."" And while that sounds fine and all,... It could still be many other things as well.

So if i'm gonna spend 1G on a computer, it'll will definitely be on a new gaming machine and this car will be sold for scrap.
The Ignition has already been changed. I didn't do it, so yes there is the possibility something has changed or worn.
The Fuel relay will be sorted in a few days (shipping) if not tomorrow.
I haven't come across any damaged wiring as of yet, everything so far has been still tightly wrapped and original. All the grounds i've come across I have inspected and am satisfied of connection.
Fuel pumps CAN be intermittent, but i'm hardly feeling like that is the culprit. We'll surely see... eventually.

 

The root cause can be any of the items I listed even if you find another thread appearing as identical to your situation. Based on the starting fluid test, do you agree that lack of fuel is the problem?

I posted possible culprits, because someone reading this in the future with lack of fuel will try your fix without troubleshooting first. Your fix may or may not fix their lack of fuel problem.

I have no idea what is the root cause with your car. I'm giving tests to start narrowing down the problem. I would never tell you to spend the money on a PCM unless your tests confirm it is the issue.

If the fuel pump is not getting power, then the car should not start at all. Do you measure power to the fuel pump for about 2 seconds when you turn the key to the II position and do not try to start the car? I want to make sure you are testing properly at the fuel pump.

How long will the engine run (or a time range) from when you release the key until it stalls out? Can you get the car to stall out when the engine is running by shaking the key?

 

1) If the fuel pump is not getting power, then the car should not start at all. Do you measure power to the fuel pump for about 2 seconds when you turn the key to the II position and do not try to start the car? I want to make sure you are testing properly at the fuel pump.

2) How long will the engine run (or a time range) from when you release the key until it stalls out? Can you get the car to stall out when the engine is running by shaking the key?


1* exactly, but yet it cranks every time. yes, we tested the pump prime voltage yesterday when I noticed the relay wasn't clicking or hearing it pumping like normal after i had taken it out to inspect it yet again.. so i brought the relay home to re solder in hopes for that to be the issue, even though it was pristine looking, unlike all the quick fix videos every where else on the web where the cracks were obvious or there were heat marks or other flaws in the board.
2* Intermittently, as stated, starts runs for about 3 seconds then dies. but then the day we put it on the dolly it ran for 20-30 minutes, 2-3 times without throwing codes etc. and its run a couple times for random lengths in between all this.
no, as stated, the ignition had been changed, i've tried jiggling the key and pulling on the wire harness connections, but nothing noticeable has ever happened.

i'll post the relay update as soon as i can this morning

 

this thread started after an IAC replacement because of idle hunt at cruise speeds and intermittent stalls when coming to a stop. It ran fine for a weekend, but that is when "the starts and dies" problem started.
Put the relay back in on friday, and the only problem was now a (1000-1100) high idle even after warming up. we found the idle screw port had been sealed after being turned all the way in and will only raise the idle and not lower it.
So no base idle.

The last crank of the day, as I was getting ready to drive home with high idle or not, the bounce idle came back tripping the IAC code. Back to square one again.

I feel nothing but disgust for the electronics plaguing today's vehicles.

Thanks for the ideas and your time.

 

Now that you are back to the original problem with a high idle, hopefully troubleshooting is easier to fix the original problem.

You mentioned your code reader wouldn't connect to your PCM. Is that still the case? Reading codes or live data can help identify the problem.

I think having the 98-02 shop manual will help you. Automanualsource.com has them for ~$22 and are worth the money.

Since the previous owner tinkered with the car, you should start with the basics.

I would disconnect and clean every ground you can find in your engine bay. G101 is a very important ground. It is bolted to the upper intake manifold just below the IAT sensor. Make sure that is clean and connected.

The next basic item I would do is use a test light or volt meter and check that every fuse has power. See youtube video below.

Air in the cooling system can cause a high idle. Some parts stores have radiator pressure testers as loaner tools. Put ~16 psi on the radiator and see if the cooling system can hold pressure. If not, then you should be able to find a leak.