Steering Vibration Armageddon..It Has Begun....
#1
Steering Vibration Armageddon..It Has Begun....
So I originally noticed a vibration under acceleration at lower speeds. If I let off the gas or took the car out of gear it would stop. On Saturday I had to drive 3 hours a way at a cruise of 70mph. The car had a little wobble to it synonymous with the need to buy a set of matching tires which I was saving up for. Typically the car only goes 30 miles a day under 55mph. As soon as I got off the highway and to my first light. I immediately notice click,click, click sounding like a CV joint and the steering wheel being violently jerked to the left. After playing with it I noticed a few behaviors.
-1996 Accord Couple 4 cylinder non vtech
-It only does it when I take it out of gear or apply brakes.
-It immediately stops upon acceleration or putting it back in gear.
-At very low speeds It almost sounds like two pieces of metal hitting together.
-When backing out of my driveway, going over speed bump or hitting an Afghanistan sized pot hole I hear a clunk sound on that side.
-It 100% is coming from and only on my Driver side.
-If I let go of the steering wheel it will literally jerk the car off the road hard left.
-I bought the car with a non functional power steering pump and had planned to replace.
I'll shut up and pay attention now and thank you in advance.
-1996 Accord Couple 4 cylinder non vtech
-It only does it when I take it out of gear or apply brakes.
-It immediately stops upon acceleration or putting it back in gear.
-At very low speeds It almost sounds like two pieces of metal hitting together.
-When backing out of my driveway, going over speed bump or hitting an Afghanistan sized pot hole I hear a clunk sound on that side.
-It 100% is coming from and only on my Driver side.
-If I let go of the steering wheel it will literally jerk the car off the road hard left.
-I bought the car with a non functional power steering pump and had planned to replace.
I'll shut up and pay attention now and thank you in advance.
#2
Check the anti-sway bar bushings (connect sway bar to wheel knuckle). They become worn and prevent anti-sway bar action and deliver clunks under acceleration and going over bumps.
CV axles may be going also, but check anti-sway bar first.
good luck
CV axles may be going also, but check anti-sway bar first.
good luck
#3
Put it on a lift and the cv's, axles look good. Forgot to check the anti sway bar bushings. But I doubt thats the issue because the clunking happens when I take my foot off the gas. It stops when I put my foot on the gas. The tie rod ends both have torn open boots with nothing in them. Also when I grab the front of my drivers side tire and the back and rock it I can hear it duplicate that metal clunking.
#4
If you've never changed sway bar bushings, they are likely worn out.
Inspect all ball jts for looseness and upper/lower arm bushings.
A worn-out motor mount can cause clunking when engine load changes; drop in gear, apply throttle, let off throttle.
good luck
Inspect all ball jts for looseness and upper/lower arm bushings.
A worn-out motor mount can cause clunking when engine load changes; drop in gear, apply throttle, let off throttle.
good luck
#5
I took it to Sears Auto and they came back with
-Bad Driver CV Half Axle, said the passenger side had been changed.
-Bad Driver side Tie Rod
-Alignment
$490.00
My buddy is a mobile mechanic and he'll stop by tonight. I'll have him point out the ball joints, upper lower arm bushings and check the motor mounts per your advice Tex.
-Bad Driver CV Half Axle, said the passenger side had been changed.
-Bad Driver side Tie Rod
-Alignment
$490.00
My buddy is a mobile mechanic and he'll stop by tonight. I'll have him point out the ball joints, upper lower arm bushings and check the motor mounts per your advice Tex.
#7
Problem solved for $45 and 2 hours of time. It was 100% the CV Axle. I live in Myrtle Beach and the kid at the Oreiley's counter had a Honda tattoo. I asked him and he said, "yep its the cv axle 100%". The car has 214k on it and both drive axles were aftermarket so should I assume I'll be doing this again if it makes it to 300k?
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