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Steering wheel shakes

Old Mar 25, 2013 | 09:09 PM
  #1  
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Default Steering wheel shakes

when i start my 1993 honda Accord station wagon LX it runs high on idle when it starts like 1500 to 2000 rpms then settles down to 800 to 900 when it warms up, but the bigger problem is that after a few minutes of running the steering wheel sharts to shake. the car does not shake so i know its not the motor mounts or transmission mount. Im getting that it could be the timing belts (both of the belts) that could be either to tight or loose, i was told it could be the belts themselves. can someone help me out?
 
Old Mar 27, 2013 | 05:54 PM
  #2  
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Is this while the car is sitting still?

Read this: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...l-wobble-3060/

Let us know what you find.
 
Old Mar 27, 2013 | 06:28 PM
  #3  
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After your PM, I decided to move this to General Tech. One because, I hate to say this but I don't check the section it was in that often...my bad. Two, because I can

So this issue started after the timing belt was changed. Sounds more like the belts, cam and balance shaft, might be "out of time".

Please tell me the belt(s) were replaced BEFORE they broke? If the belt(s) broke and then this issue came up......then we have a different story.
 
Old Mar 27, 2013 | 06:36 PM
  #4  
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no the belts broke first then about 2 to 2 1/2 weeks later the problem started. i only used the car to from work about 10 miles round trip, 6 days a week from mid febuary to end of april last year. hasnt moved since. is the problem a major or minor problem?
 
Old Mar 27, 2013 | 06:40 PM
  #5  
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belts broke Jan, 2 2012, didnt get it fixed till mid febuary. stopped running the car april 29 2012 due to lisense issues. hasnt moved since. i do turn it on once in a while i brought it to my shop to work on it myself cause i have a lift to see better. but thats about it.
 
Old Mar 27, 2013 | 07:08 PM
  #6  
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Ok, more of the story - Auto or manual trans?

1. Double check the mounts. A friend you TRUST is important. With the car on and warm, e-brake on and holding the brake pedal. Shift the car to D4, give it a bit of gas as you watch the engine. Then put the car in R and do the same. If a manual trans, gets more fun as you need a friend you trust and they can handle a stick.....but pretty much the same.

2. The car sat for a long time. This could be as simple as bad gas......run it to 1/2 tank and fill it up with whatever gas treatment you like. Run it some more, another 1/2 tank and fill it back up.....is it getting better?

3. Do a compression test or leak down test. A few reasons here. One, these are interference engines so if the timing belt breaks there is a high % chance that Mr piston got to meet Mr valve. A valve can get bent......however if the issue wasn't there from Jan 2012 till you stopped driving the car...then this might not be the issue.

However, I see you say you started the car a few times while not driving but if there was a small HG leak...at some point enough coolant could have leaked into one of the cyl's and on one of the starts, this liquid could have bent a valve.


At this point, I can't even remember what #4 was but there was one....getting old sucks.
 
Old Mar 27, 2013 | 07:34 PM
  #7  
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Also, so you know. I sent a note to the Admin of the site to edit your user name....drop everything from "@" on.....you and the site do not need a bunch of spam. So at some point if you try to log in and it does not know you....try dropping everything from that point on
 
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