Will do, hopefully tomorrow.

I hooked my vacuum gauge up so I could read it when driving. at idle it would read 23 in/hg though. Thats a little higher than the "normal range" but I cant find a thing on what that means if the vacuum is high. Im thinking timing is a little too advanced, possibly due to the IACV?

When driving it would go to almost 0 at hard acceleration and go back up to normal when i lighten the pedal. At full or close to full throttle holding it, it would be at or near 0. Does that indicate a clogged exhaust or is that normal?


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Just an update.
I finally found something that suggested that a reading above 22 in/hg suggests the timing is too advanced but theres no pinging (this could be cuz i am using premium as its the only fuel with no ethanol around here). Im wondering if this contributes to all this. So possible symptoms are:

Advanced timing
Lean condition based on spark plugs
Reduced throttle response when hot

 

Please read what I wrote above but also,
here are some pics. Its freezing out so I only took one spark plug out but they all look exactly the same. I do see a little tan in the photos but in real life its more white. The black stuff around the plug is not as pronounced in person than in the picture but I dont know if that indicates something. The more I look into this, the more it seems like my timing is a little too advanced. But because I use premium, there probably wont be any knocking. Does a timing problem seem plausible?

 

The plug looks fine. When you pull the others out to take pics, get much closer and take the pic from the top of the plugs so most of the electrode porcelain is visible.

OBD2, the ECU controls the timing; no manual adjustment is possible.

What's the fuel pressure?

 

From what ive found since this is a 97, while the ecu controls the timing, its based off the initial calibration. Meaning it can be adjusted when using a jumper connector and from there the ECU adjusts during certain conditions. But thats just based on what ive read around online and from the FSM.

Ill try to take more pics but I cant get closer with the macro setting as it gets blurry. You can click on the full size images, theyre pretty big.

The fuel pressure I havent been able to check because Im having trouble with the testing point. Thats in another thread I started for help.

 

I think for any OBD-2, even today, the spark timing is always based on the sensors. However, the TDC sensor is down at the crankshaft pulley, with very little margin for mechanical repositioning.

(I'm pretty sure that twisting the distributor will not affect spark timing)

 

That was my thought but then from what Ive seen the 97 accord was the oddball as it was obd2 with a "fake" distributor. From what Ive gathered, theres the initial timing setting and then the sensors take over from there.

The FSM just says the ECU will compensate based a certain sensors and then it goes into the whole distributor rotating to set the timing. It doesnt specify a difference between the 94 f22b1 and the 97 f22b1 or in between.

From what I understand of the system is that you set the timing with the distributor rotation and then the ECU will compensate for the timing adjustment at certain speeds and loads based on the map sensor, speed, etc as opposed to pre-obd2 where it was based on vacuum or something else, right?

Not to argue by any means, cuz you guys could be right. this is what I understand unless for this specific car you guys have seen otherwise.

Back to my original concerns, does a timing issue seem plausible? I know I tend to balance multiple theories at once but thats how my brain works.

I do have another "symptom".
I just filled up on gas and before the car had a decent amount of performance and was running well, after filling up it felt a bit more sluggish. This could be the added weight of the gas too but maybe something to do with fuel pressure, which I will see once I get the gauge to do the test with.

 

There are three bolts holding the distributor. If your distributor is original, two of the bolts go into slots and one into a hole. The one with the hole keeps the distributor from being twisted. Even if you could twist the distributor, as Jim Blake said, the timing wouldn't change since the ECU uses the CKP sensor at the crankshaft to adjust the timing.

 

Ok. I do believe you guys. I'm just wondering why the FSM doesnt mention it and online instructions are specifically for 97 accord. Im getting confused looking at stuff like this
http://www.hondahookup.com/forums/sh...ming-97-Accord
and the FSM itself.

So why would the vacuum gauge read higher than the 'healthy engine' zone? The filter isnt clogged as there was no drop in vacuum when I removed the intake pipe.

I repeated do research and come back and change around my posts. heres another which may support the fuel pressure theory-

When I went to take the banjo bolt off the fuel rail, thinking I had what I needed for a fuel pressure test, gas didnt squirt out, it just dripped. This was right after turning the car off. I didnt think it odd because I had opened the gas cap, but looking into it more, there should still be pressure near the fuel rail anyways right? Does that suggest a fuel pressure issue right off the bat?

 

Heres the fuel pressure test. I did it twice. Each time was with the regulator attached to the manifold and then detaching (where you see the pressure go up) and capping off the nipple on the IM of course. Engine almost stalls when I detach the regulator from the manifold. These readings are at idle. According to the FSM everything is good. Im not sure about the idling low when detaching the regulator though...

Fuel Pressure Test - YouTube

 

Can you snake the gauge out the back of the hood so you can see it while you're driving?