strange electrical problem -2005 honda accord
 

Today i decided to try and tackle about the only problem my accord had been having. For weeks now the drivers side window has been the only one that has worked. When i tried the other windows i can hear something turning at each window when i tried that window. so i assumed they were getting power. So today after reading a manual on my accord i started to try and troubleshoot the window problem. I pried up the drivers side power window master switch. i then tried to jump terminals 10 and 14 together while terminal 3 was connected to body ground, this was to check operation of drivers side back window. well it arched out and blew something.

I now have no instrument panel power, no speedometer, no odometer, no blinkers( except when i press the hazard button they work), no windshield wipers, no power windows, i do have power locks though. heater works, cruise control works but only lights up when i set a speed.

I checked all related fuses i could find and verified power all through the fuse box under the hood. i then checked under to dash on drivers side and found that im getting no power to a number of fuses in the box. i pulled the fuses checked if they were good. they were. and checked with multimeter and verified that no power is getting to these fuses under the dash on drivers side. I NEED HELP PLEASE

1. The initial problem was probably due to a faulty door multiplex control unit, which is incorporated into the power window master switch. A simpler test is described in this other thread for that.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...working-52178/

2. On the door multiplex control unit, cavity/terminal no. 10 is for the Grn/Wht wire which is protected by the under-dash Fuse No. 27 (20A) fuse. Double-check this fuse. Power for the power window relay and the under-dash fuse No. 27 comes from the under-hood No. 23 multi-fuse (50A/50A) (it has two 50A fuse built into it). Check to see if the multi-fuse is blown.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...multi-fuse-jpg

The under-hood No. 23 multi-fuse provides power to the power window relay, the under-dash No. 27 fuse, and to under-dash No. 21 fuse (which provides power to the gauge control module, wipers, and many more other components).

While you are checking the under-hood fuses, also check the No. 15 (40A) fuse, which provides power to under-dash No. 7 fuse (also used by some of the components you listed as not working now).

checked those fuses
 

I checked the 50/50 fuse and it tested good. I also verified that power was getting to it with multimeter and it has power. Im going now to double check all related fuses you just mentioned and will report back shortly. thank you for the prompt response.

So i checked all Under hood fuses and they all tested good. But i am not getting any power to fuses 1,3,5,6,7 under the hood. Please help. The 50/50 fuse was good abd it's getting power

Do you mean under-dash fuse 1,3,5,6,7 not getting any power, instead of under-hood? Otherwise, your headlights and a few other things won't work if it was under-hood for those fuses.

You didn't mention whether under-hood fuse No. 15 (40A) was checked?

no it was those fuses under the hood not getting any power , but the fuses themselves were good. and yes i checked the no.15 (40a) fuse as well as the others and theyre all good

And under the dash ive got no power to fuses 24,25,26. But 27 and 28 do. 28 is for the sign roof but it won't work

Could it possibly have something to do with my after market alarm?

any advice would be greatly appreciated, as ive tried everything ive been taught, learned or can think of and still no progress has been made other than verifying that my fuses are good and which fuses arent getting power. im stumped please help

This does sound like you have a blown fuse somewhere.

How are you testing that the fuses are good? Especially the high amp ones?

When I test, I ground my black meter lead to the - battery post. Then touch the red meter lead to each side of the fuse while it is plugged in for the big fuses if both sides are accessible. Both sides should have 12V.

For the small amp fuses, there are two small metal tabs next to the number on the top. Use the same method as above.

Does this make sense?