strange electrical problem -2005 honda accord
 

Today i decided to try and tackle about the only problem my accord had been having. For weeks now the drivers side window has been the only one that has worked. When i tried the other windows i can hear something turning at each window when i tried that window. so i assumed they were getting power. So today after reading a manual on my accord i started to try and troubleshoot the window problem. I pried up the drivers side power window master switch. i then tried to jump terminals 10 and 14 together while terminal 3 was connected to body ground, this was to check operation of drivers side back window. well it arched out and blew something.

I now have no instrument panel power, no speedometer, no odometer, no blinkers( except when i press the hazard button they work), no windshield wipers, no power windows, i do have power locks though. heater works, cruise control works but only lights up when i set a speed.

I checked all related fuses i could find and verified power all through the fuse box under the hood. i then checked under to dash on drivers side and found that im getting no power to a number of fuses in the box. i pulled the fuses checked if they were good. they were. and checked with multimeter and verified that no power is getting to these fuses under the dash on drivers side. I NEED HELP PLEASE

1. The initial problem was probably due to a faulty door multiplex control unit, which is incorporated into the power window master switch. A simpler test is described in this other thread for that.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...working-52178/

2. On the door multiplex control unit, cavity/terminal no. 10 is for the Grn/Wht wire which is protected by the under-dash Fuse No. 27 (20A) fuse. Double-check this fuse. Power for the power window relay and the under-dash fuse No. 27 comes from the under-hood No. 23 multi-fuse (50A/50A) (it has two 50A fuse built into it). Check to see if the multi-fuse is blown.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...multi-fuse-jpg

The under-hood No. 23 multi-fuse provides power to the power window relay, the under-dash No. 27 fuse, and to under-dash No. 21 fuse (which provides power to the gauge control module, wipers, and many more other components).

While you are checking the under-hood fuses, also check the No. 15 (40A) fuse, which provides power to under-dash No. 7 fuse (also used by some of the components you listed as not working now).

checked those fuses
 

I checked the 50/50 fuse and it tested good. I also verified that power was getting to it with multimeter and it has power. Im going now to double check all related fuses you just mentioned and will report back shortly. thank you for the prompt response.

So i checked all Under hood fuses and they all tested good. But i am not getting any power to fuses 1,3,5,6,7 under the hood. Please help. The 50/50 fuse was good abd it's getting power

Do you mean under-dash fuse 1,3,5,6,7 not getting any power, instead of under-hood? Otherwise, your headlights and a few other things won't work if it was under-hood for those fuses.

You didn't mention whether under-hood fuse No. 15 (40A) was checked?

no it was those fuses under the hood not getting any power , but the fuses themselves were good. and yes i checked the no.15 (40a) fuse as well as the others and theyre all good

And under the dash ive got no power to fuses 24,25,26. But 27 and 28 do. 28 is for the sign roof but it won't work

Could it possibly have something to do with my after market alarm?

any advice would be greatly appreciated, as ive tried everything ive been taught, learned or can think of and still no progress has been made other than verifying that my fuses are good and which fuses arent getting power. im stumped please help

This does sound like you have a blown fuse somewhere.

How are you testing that the fuses are good? Especially the high amp ones?

When I test, I ground my black meter lead to the - battery post. Then touch the red meter lead to each side of the fuse while it is plugged in for the big fuses if both sides are accessible. Both sides should have 12V.

For the small amp fuses, there are two small metal tabs next to the number on the top. Use the same method as above.

Does this make sense?

If under-hood fuse numbers 1,3,5,6, and 7 are not getting any power, then does your headlights (high and low beams) and taillights work?

Under-dash fuses 24, 25, and 26 protect the passenger window switch and rear window switches; they only receive power if the driver's door multiplex control unit was properly working.

Even if under-dash fuse no. 28 is good, the moonroof/sunroof also relies on a working under-dash fuse no. 21 (7.5A). Under-dash fuse no. 21 needs to be check again.

Most likely no.

Pahonda: yes that absolutely makes sense and that's exactly what i did. I wedged the black lead of my multi meter to negative battery terminal and proceeded to check every fuse. The larger fuses i pulled checked the terminals for power where they where then checked those fuses with a test light as well as with the multi meter for resistance across terminals out the fuse. Everything has checked out. Im having a hard time figuring why I'm not getting power to certian fuses when everything I've checked has been good

Redbull-1: headlights, high beams and low beams do work. But not much else. My instrument panel does light up briefly when i open door and put key in ignition,but turns off within seconds. But when it did illuminate none of my gauges move, example: gas gauge, temp gauge. They're all dead.blinkers don't wirk unless i push hazard button.

I'll recheck under dash fuse no. 21 and the rest of them and report back. Thanks guys/ gals for your time and insight . I sure need the help

Oh and yes tail lights work

In the under hood fuse box, fuse 1 and 6 will only get power when the low beams are on. Fuse 3 and 5 get power only when the high beams are on. Please verify this is what happens.

Under dash fuse box 24, 25, and 26 are powered by the power window relay. You may want to swap that relay with an identical one nearby, then retest the power windows and fuse 24-26.

Retest for power on both sides of fuses #7 and #21 under the dash.

PAhonda: ok im on it.

The power window relay is probably good, like I previously mentioned your initial problem sounded like the driver's multiplex control unit; which is a relatively common problem on your generation Accords.

This is from post #11 of the other thread I linked to early in this thread:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...g-52178/page2/

"For the front passenger window and rear windows to work, they need to receive voltage coming via the power window relay (a relay is basically a type of switch). The power window relay is a normally-open type relay. If the door multiplex control unit sends a ground signal via the Wht/Grn wire to the power window relay, the relay will close, which allow voltage to fuses, 24, 25, and 26.

The left rear window switch receives voltage through fuse 24, the right rear window switch receives voltage through fuse 25, and the right front window switch receives voltage through fuse 26. By attaching a wire to cavity 3 (where the Wht/Grn wire is) and grounding it, the power window relay closes, which then allow voltage to the front passenger switch and rear window switches.

The driver’s door window switch does not receive voltage through that power window relay."

Redbull-1: ok but how would that cause the instrument panel and other accessories not to work, and how do i fix it?

PAhonda: you are right. Upon turning on headlights and high beams, i then had power to related fuses in the engine compartment fuse box

What most likely happened when you tried jumping the terminal wires at the door multiplex unit was that a short occurred. Fuse 21 (7.5A) and Fuse 7 (10A) also protect the multiplex integrated control unit (MICU) and the door multiplex control unit. Either or both under-dash Fuse 21 and Fuse 7 may be blown; or there is an open in the wiring related to one or both of those fuses; or you may have blown the MICU (the MICU is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box).

Fuse 21 protects the following components:
Back-up light switch (M/T), Front passenger’s power window switch
(EX, EX-L), Gauge control module, MICU, Hazard warning switch
('04-'05), Power window master switch, Relay control module,
Shift lock solenoid (A/T), Wiper/washer switch

Fuse 21 also needs to supply power to the MICU for the moonroof to work.

Fuse 7 protects the following components:
Gauge control module, Immobilizer control unit-receiver, MICU,
Navigation display unit (EX-L: Navigation), Navigation unit (EX-L:
Navigation), Power window master switch (’05),
Wiper/washer switch

1. First re-check that under-dash Fuse 21 and 7 are okay.
2. If those two fuses are okay, is there power on both sides of those fuses with the ignition ON?
3. If there is power on both sides of those fuses with the ignition ON, either wiring; or the fusebox; or the MICU may be damaged. On your car, the MICU is replaced as part of the fuse/relay box.
4. If there is power on only one side of those fuses with the ignition ON, then there is an open in the wiring from the under-hood fuse box leading to the under-dash fuse box.

Thank you so much for your time and help. I fixed the problem and it was fuse number 21 under the dash. Apparently i accidentally skipped over this one cause didn't see it was blown till now. Feel like a dumb a**. So now back to original problem with my windows.

That leaves Fuse #7 in the under hood fuse box that is unaccounted for. I think you have the same shop manual I am using. I can not figure out the power source for that fuse, but let me know if you locate that information.

My best suggestion is to unplug the source for each component that is not working (I'd start with the easiest ones to access), then test the input to the non working component. Either power or ground is missing on a minimum of one wire. Once those are identified, then we may be able to work backwards.

As I was typing this, RedBull-1 added a post. I also asked about #7 and #21 fuse under the dash in an earlier post, and you never posted your results.

Then do the simple test in my other link with only one wire to check the door multiplex control unit.

Post # 2 mentions those fuses; under-hood and under-dash.

Redbull-1 and PAhonda: i apologize i thought i had checked all the fuses but obviously missed this one. Sorry for the confusion on my part. Guys were spot on with the information and are true Honda guru's.

Redbull-1: I'm gonna follow instructions in the link you provided and will report back. Thank you

So which fuse was blown? Are you back to your original problem?

PAhonda: it was fuse #21 under the dash(7.5a). and yes back to original problem. im going now to perform the test that redbull-1 linked in his orginal response to is thread.

[QUOTE=redbull-1;341043]1. The initial problem was probably due to a faulty door multiplex control unit, which is incorporated into the power window master switch. A simpler test is described in this other thread for that.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...working-52178/

2. On the door multiplex control unit, cavity/terminal no. 10 is for the Grn/Wht wire which is protected by the under-dash Fuse No. 27 (20A) fuse. Double-check this fuse. Power for the power window relay and the under-dash fuse No. 27 comes from the under-hood No. 23 multi-fuse (50A/50A) (it has two 50A fuse built into it). Check to see if the multi-fuse is blow.





i ran the test talked about in the link redbull-1 provided. the test couldnt have been simpler and was easy to understand. after running the test and with the information it seems that the multi plex unit is bad. all windows worked upon jumping post #3 (wht/grn wire) with a wire to ground.

thank you all for the help and now im going to price a master power window switch.
redbull-1,PAhonda, and forum: In your opinion should i get a brand new one since this is a common problem ? because if i found and purchased a used one could it be more likely to go out?

A used one is probably fine. But, if you want to try to save even more money, use a small jumper wire to ground the door multiplex control unit between the cavity terminals (read the other posts near the end of the thread I linked), that may be okay as long as the car's multiplex control system does not stay awake with the car off and drain the car battery. The multiplex control system has sleep and wake modes. If the battery gets drained with the car off, then don't use it; but, that probably won't happen.

also my check engine light was on so i hook up a scan tool and it returned these codes: p0408 ,p0102 , 61-01 , 08-07 , 09-02

any thoughts ? the check engine light is now off but still is returning those codes

With the exception of P0102 - MAF sensor circuit low voltage, those other codes are not listed for your generation Accord or are generic.

If the Check Engine Light is not currently on, it means there was an intermittent failure. If the problem(s) recurs, the Check Engine Light will come back on.

Sometimes a low battery charge or power will cause multiple codes. First check you battery cable connections and other electrical connections. If those are okay, check the battery.

redbull-1: so i ran a jumper wire from terminal-3(wht/grn) to terminal-2(blk) and it works just fine. only thing is it stays live even after i take key out of ignition, and the window controls at each of the doors stays illuminated even after car is off and keys are out of ignition. so this could possibly drain my battery right?

Yes, that would drain the battery if they stay live after the key is out.

Try attaching a wire from cavity 1 (Blk) to cavity 3 (Wht/Grn) to see if things change.

Now i have a maint. Req light that is coming on upon startup but then goes off. And a headlight went out again and i just put new ones in. The headlight thing has been reoccurring problem and it alternates sides. Any idea what could cause that? Should i start a new thread?

Is the power window problem resolved?

If yes, which method did you use, a jumper wire (which cavities) or replacement of door multiplex control unit?

Yes, start another thread for the maintenance required light and headlight problem, as this thread is already kind of long, a different issue, and it will be less confusing to follow.

will do , i just thought they could be related in someway especially the maint. reqd. light coming on.
the power window issue is not resolved yet. i did jump terminals 3 - and 2, which did make each window in the car work but remained hot even when car was off. I also tried the same thing between terminals 3-and 1 and had the same results. if you dont think any of this could be related ill definetley start a new thread , ....

The maintenance required light just means a certain mileage has past since it has last been reset, it is to indicate that routine maintenance should be performed as recommended in the owner's manual.

The headlight problem is probably not related to the power window problem, which is a door multiplex control unit problem. So, starting a new thread for the headlight problem would be better.