Following happened to my 2010 Acura TSX w/ 2.4L K24 engine. Same engine used in Accords from 2003 and later. I have never encountered this failure, but it certainly is potentially catastrophic. I'll let forum know when I finish repair.

My wife was leaving local grocery store Tuesday and TSX ran poorly, missing and stalled in parking lot. She tried to restart but could only get intermittent turn-over of engine. Sometimes no turn-over at all. Starter could be heard engaging. I had car towed home.

I verified engine would intermittently turn over but stop like engine was binding. I thought I had a broken timing chain and bent valves.

Yesterday I removed valve cover and spark plugs to turn engine over by hand. Valve gaps were good and timing chain appeared intact. Timing was good. Engine turned easily and got huge gush of gasoline from #2 cylinder. No other cylinders showed any gas. I removed #2 fuel injector and found it stuck in open position. I could blow air through w/ compressed air rubber nozzle to end. I've ordered a replacement fuel injector for the #2.

Hopefully the hydraulic #2 cylinder lock due to fuel did not damage connecting rod or crankshaft. There were numerous hits from attempted starts.

Not sure what would cause this problem. Any thoughts? Injector resistance was 10 ohms.

Good Luck (Needed here indeed!)

 

Just make sure the control side of the injector is switching at the PCM, and the circuit from the injector to the PCM is not shorted to ground, this will keep the injector ON all the time. Use a noid light to verify if you have one. I'd also flush the injection rail out while you have things apart.

 

You say you could blow through the injector; I assume that means while it was disconnected from the wiring? If so, then it has to be a failed injector rather than a wiring fault.

 

Yes, it is mechanically stuck open and continues to be. I just today tried to see if FI solenoid would fire. It does not move and remains open.

I checked for power (yes constant) to #2 FI plug and ground (no w/ switch on). My circuit tester (incandescent lamp) would not fire when ground signal arrived w/ engine turn-over. Nice eruption of fuel from #2 open spark plug hole.

I plan to turn on ignition switch w/ FI rail out of the intake manifold to make sure there are no leaks.

I plan a compression test to see if any obvious damage.

thanks

 

I just like to cover the bases, I've seen shorted injector drivers take out injectors and shorted injectors do the same to the drivers. Put an injector in it, make sure you replace all the O-rings too.

 

Well, I received and installed the new FI.

Engine now turns over but will not run. No hint of running. I detect an asymmetry in the engine sound while starting. Perhaps a weak #2 compression but that should not prevent a start.

I found my compression test kit does not have a 12mm spark plug size adapter. I'm checking AZ for help w/ adapter and will also check for spark.

No stored codes.

Any suggestions appreciated.

regards

 

I'm thinking you're already heading in the right direction; first stop, compression test.

 

I checked spark (yes), fuel injector fire (yes), and fuel pressure (pressure is available but don't have fittings to measure).

I coarsely checked compression on #2 w/ thumb in spark plug tube. Probably OK.

Tomorrow I plan to check timing and compression.

regards

 

Jumped timing is a definite possibility.

 

I checked timing this morning and found TDC on crankshaft and #1 aligned. Camshafts were aligned properly.

I checked piston max up travel on #2 compared to 1, 3, & 4. All were w/I 1-2mm of my mark on screwdriver rule.

Any thoughts appreciated.

I'm down to low fuel pressure or low compression (now unlikely but still open). I've ordered the compression test 12mm adapter and am trying to figure how to rig a fuel pressure gauge by splicing in a test jumper w/ tee to gauge at the fuel rail. I need to adapt to 8mm (5/16") quick connect male and female ends. So far I've found female connector (dorman), but no easy 5/16" male end x hose adapter. Following is best I've found but I'll need another adapter from 6an to hose barb.


thanks