I am planning to help a friend with her 93 Accord LX (4-door). There is an awful squeak in the suspension on the left front. I suspect the lower ball joint. The CV joint is also bad on this side, and there is play in both outer tie rod ends.

So I plan to replace the left CV axle, tie rod ends, and probably both lower ball joints (need to diagnose a bit to determine if possible exactly where the squeak is coming from).

My main question is - which parts? I know dealer parts and Moog are highly regarded. But this car is strictly a grocery getter. It may never leave town again in its life.

And yes money is an issue.. As an example, a NAPA house brand tie-rod end is around $17. Their 'better' one is $43 (made by Dana I believe).

Same with ball joints. House brand $19. 'Dana' $38.

I already replaced the right CV axle on this car last year and used the 'better' NAPA part (around $80) so I plan to do the same on the left side.

The guys at NAPA say they have had no issues with the less expensive parts. What are your guys thoughts ??

 

I try to go with OEM parts if the price difference is reasonable.

I remember new lower ball joints for my 95 accord were not too expensive at the dealership (~$25). Try looking up the parts at a site like hondapartsnow.com. You can compare OEM prices vs the aftermarket. Plus you can get the OEM part numbers and search online sites (like ebay, etc..) for decent prices.

 

Thanks PA.

You helped me bring the air conditioner on this car back to life a ways back. Appreciate the reply.

[edit] A quick look shows about 20 bucks for an OEM ball joint. But $63 for a tie rod end. The OEM ball joint may be a no brainer here..

 

Check and see how much the MOOG tie rods are. I have never had a problem with their suspension components, except the lower ball joints. The OEM lower ball joints last upwards 200k.

 

Don't mess with a tie rod end after market part IMO. If it goes the driver and who ever is in the car goes where the car wants to go. Not good.

 

I've had issues with aftermarket tie rode ends and ball joints too. Not the part itself but the cheap nut that comes with it. I have had them come apart when the nut failed even when properly torqued according to spec. The threads stripped right out. If you elect to go that route, I highly suggest getting a high quality locking nut from a quality fastener supplier. When I had these issues, I used a high quality stainless steel nylon locking nut from Fastenal to correct the problem. No further issues experienced. BTW, both the failed parts were NAPA brand......sean

 

What problems have you seen with Moog lower ball joints?

 

Yup. Roger that..

 

I know some of those cheaper parts look cheap to the eye. Incredible that any reputable manufacturer would stick their necks out like that.

Thanks NorCal.

 

Well this happened before my friend wanted me to make the repair:



Fortunately speed was about 5 mph and it was 2 blocks away from home. So today I began working on it, and I have a couple of questions..

In pressing the ball joint out, the flange is catching on the knuckle casting. I'm not sure if it's because it's a little cocked in the bore (I know it is a little). The area I'm talking about is indicated by the arrow in the photo.



I'm using a puller and I can't seem to keep the thing straight because the puller is pushing against the inards of the ball joint. I'm thinking I may have to use a die grinder or dremel to remove part of the flange on the old ball joint to be able to get it all the way out. What are your guys thoughts?

The other issue is the other part of the ball joint. I thought I would be able to hammer it out easily enough from the bottom, but it is really stuck in there. Any suggestions on this one? Puller again? Heat??