A little of the rubber boot broken off on the connector to the sending unit is nothing to worry about.


Did the car start prior to checking for the temperature gauge issue? If you disconnected other connectors, make sure they are all firmly reconnected.

When you try to start the car, does the Check Engine Light come on for about 2 seconds and then turn off?

 

It did work before I disconnected the other connectors. I searched a ton to see if I missed any but no luck.

When I try and start the car, the check engine light stays on. It doesn't go away. Prior to my actions this wasn't happening.

 

Underneath the passenger side glove box area are two blue connector (in a holder).

Unplug the 2P blue connector (Service Check Connector) from the holder. The connector has a red wire and a grn/blu wire. Then connect a jumper wire into this connector's cavity terminals. Turn the ignition ON and count the number of flashes. There may be either short of long flashes of the Check Engine Light, or a combination of short and long flashes. These flashes are to indicate specific trouble code numbers.

There is a sticky at the top of this forum section, "Common DIY and other info. thread" if you need more info. on counting the flashes.

 

Also,

I found something of interest. This album details my findings:

http://imgur.com/a/vAFYA

Do you think that a broken terminal in that second image could be causing the problem of the fuel pump not getting power?

 

Oh, and what is a jumper wire? Just any loose wire that I have lying around?

Nvm, I found it:
http://dhost.info/accordinfo/howto/cel.html

 

You can use any small wire or even a small paper clip to jump the connector.

 

Welp, I don't know what I did differently this time but my car just started up on several occasions with no issues.

Maybe fixing that connection was what helped.

 

redbull -

I went to start my car today and this issue arose:


I google searched the problem a couple of weeks ago and it suggested that I clean the IACV with carb cleaner, which I did. It also suggested I replace the MAP sensor. I did that too.

Do you think it's time for an IACV replacement?

 

Stop replacing parts until you diagnose the problem. Never replace a sensor until you get a code and/or do some electrical tests.

You have several issues going on at once, so please answer these questions:
1. Do you still have a problem with the temperature gauge?
2. Did you get any engine codes (check engine light) or transmission codes (D4 light) when you jumped the service connector?
3. When you cleaned the IACV, did you disconnect the coolant hoses?

 

1. No, the temp gauge is not malfunctioning anymore.

2. My check engine light isn't on anymore. I haven't jumped the service connector since I did a week ago.

3. Yes, I disconnected the coolant hoses when I cleaned it (I assume they're the ones below the actual unit that are clamped onto the unit.)