I checked the timing and it appears to be off. With the cam lined up properly the flywheel shows no markings. I hit it with a timing light and also got no markings. The timing light did light. Any suggestions? Thanks.

 

You could use motor oil also. Oil allows rings to seal and create better compression. If compression doesn't improve w/ added oil, suspect valve leakage or mis-timed valves.

 

If you lineup the flywheel to TDC, how many cogs are you off on the cam?

There is also a possibility that you had the cam turned the wrong way, because the cam goes through two revolutions for every one turn of the crankshaft.

 

Im not quite sure what the deal is with the timing. So far it looks liked it jumped a couple of cogs. I will let you know when i have more info. Thanks.

 

As long as the distributor is turning, the spark will be generated and timing flashes will occur. If they are not illuminating any timing marks, you know the timing is far off. You'll have to replace timing belt and reset timing if you confirm the timing belt is misaligned. Hopefully no valve damage.

good luck

 

To see that the cam was "lined up properly", you must havedeterminedthat with the valve cover removed, the upper timing cover removed, and the dstributor cap removed, correct?

If the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock marks on the back of the cam pulley are even with the top of the head, the 12 o'clock mark is in the 12 o'clock position, and the distributor rotor is pointing to the #1 plug's cotact in the distributor cap, this indicates a TDC positionon the valve-train, or ignition-timing, "side" of the engine.

Under that rectangular rubber plug on the front of the engine, if theflywheel mark islined up with the V-notch indciator, this indicates TDCon either thecompression or theexhaust cycle of the piston"side" of the engine.

If you have TDC on the timing side, but don't have it on the piston side, the timing belt is eithernot in its proper position on the crank and cam pulleys, or the timing-belttesioner is not doing what it's supposed to do and the belt is loose enough to affect the accuracy of thetiming side operation.

The latter will certainly affect compression readingsbecause the exhaust and intake valves are not both closed for the entire compression stroke. For exaample,the intake mayclose wellbefore the pistongets to the bottom of the intake stroke, or it may be still be open when the piston starts the compression stroke.

As I said, if the belt has slipped into the wrong position, or the belt is too loose, likely it is because the tensioner is not doing its job.So, ifyou still have the upper timing cover off,using your finger, press on both sides of the timing beltsomewhere below the center of the sides of the cam pulley. Is belt tension adequate, andequal, on bothsides of the campulley? Try to raise the belt off the campulley from the water-pump side of the pulley. Can you do it? If you can, something's verywrong.

Good luck.

 

Ok turned out timing belt slipped due to a bunch of plastic from the timing cover be cut off by the belts. the timing was off 40 degrees. The plastic got on the gears under the cover and caused the belt to slip. The car starts right up and runs better than it did. Thanks to all that contributed. Thanks.

 

need the timing marks for the small belt used along with the main timing belt on the 1991 Honda Accord. I dont have any marks on thesmaller beltswhichappear to runthe oil pump and the harmonic balancer. The balancer puller has what looks like a punch mark on one of the teeth but I cant locate a stationary reference mark on it. Can anyonegive me some guidance on the marks to fully time this engine.

Thanks,

Rchnsgl

 

Post a new thread.You'll get better responses to your problem.

good luck

 

The balancer belt has a mark on the shaft itself that lines up with a mark on the block.

Check this forum for some pics: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/m_22119/tm.htm

As for the oil pump, its a bit tougher to line up. The dimple on the tooth lines with the last part of the housing (around 5 o'clock). You can insert a 1/2 drill bit through a dummy bolt on the back of the engine block that will verify if you are in the right spot on that shaft.

This site might give you a better idea of what I am talking about as well:

http://web.archive.org/web/200408131...meBalNote.html