I got the Aisin TKH 007 Timing Belt Kit

I just got some questions. I know it's crucial to replace the Timing Belt and Balance Belt and the water pump. I did however go ahead and got the Honda parts instead for the belts. I also got some honda seals for some reason was not included in this kit. The honda seals that I got are Cam Seal, Crank Seal, Rear Main Seal -Maybe called also the front seal, and Valve Cover Seal (actually not honda but fel-pro for Valve Cover Seal). I had heard some times some seals should be replaced on the second or third timing belt job. Or when you see the leak or suspect the leak. Now I do have some drops once in a while from the timing belt area. So I thought it might be a good idea to replace the seals. It does make the job harder (there is no complete video on youtube showing the whole job of this). These drops might come from the Valve Cover Seal more likely? Not sure.

But the more important question here is: About those two tensioners and those springs. Should I replace those? I'm not sure they are honda parts? How long do they last? I think they might be crucial, because if they ever fail than the timing belt will fail. If they should be replaced, should they be replaced by honda parts? I got to hurry, because now I'm debating to return that Aisin kit. Although, I'm sure it's probably likely that the tensioners are quality parts in the kit. But to be safe should I replace honda parts?

Is it necessary? I think it's a strong possibility that there was 2 timing belt jobs on this car as indicated by previous owner. I don't know when the last one was done, but I can tell you my guess is from 2005 to 2010.

 

how many miles on the car?

But in general, yes, replace the tensioners. Use Honda, or Honda OEM manufacturer parts. if a tensioner fails, the t belt system can fail.

 

I'd replace all the seals just to ensure you have no leaks in the future. Replacing the seals isn't too difficult. When removing the seal you must avoid scratching/gouging the outside of the engine housing when prying out the seal. Towards the end of video below, you'll see how he does the cam seal on a Civic engine, but the accord is the same process. I'd probably break the cam bolt loose before removing the original timing belt, but don't remove the bolt until the belt is off.

For the idlers, look at the brand of bearing on the race on the Aisin kit. If they are name brand, like NOK, then I'd use them and the new springs.

There is also an o-ring seal under the rear balance shaft housing that can leak that I'd replace. The access hole to lock the rear balance shaft in place will keep the rear balance shaft in time when you remove the housing. Use some whiteout to mark a tooth and the housing to keep the gear in time before removing. I think a 1/4 drill bit will work to keep the rear balance shaft in place. DO NOT FORGET TO REMOVE THIS after installing the new timing belt.

I also put my own marks on the original timing belt notches on the side with whiteout and on the original timing belt and on the two teeth of the gears for the cam crank and really any gear. Then I transferred my marks on the new timing belt by counting the teeth. I found the belt with my kit had an extra tooth, so I bought the OEM Honda belt. I can't remember the kit as I did this job on my 95 accord over 15 years ago. I went a bit overkill, but I wanted to be 100% sure I got the timing belt on in time.

The tensioner pulley has a hole that pivots on a post on the engine block that is easily overlooked when installing. Ericthecarguy.com also has a v-manual for sale for $16 that covers the timing belt on a 2.2L engine. It is very detailed and may help. I believe he is working on a 97 accord, but it is essentially the same as your 93.

 

Okay thanks, I forget to check that. Those tensioner bearings are made in Japan called Koyo in that Aisin kit. Okay, I'm 95% certain I'm keeping this kit. I think I over did it when spending parts.
$141.00 for the Aisin TKH 007 Timing Belt Kit.
$140.00 for both the timing belt and balance belt (Honda OEM)

Oh well, It's not a big deal. It's kind of important to have correct parts down there. Only darn shame the Aisin kit didn't have the OEM or Japan made parts for the belts. Not sure why they didn't include seals as well, oh well.

Regarding the seals, I think I have almost all of them. The only confusing one was the "o-ring style gasket on the rear balance shaft housing" I didn't know what that one was because I didn't know what part number it was called. I got confused, I thought it was a small o-ring. The problem is I did find a another kit for the complete timing belt gasket set. It was called TC214.E7. I think the that o-ring looks like a water pump gasket but turned out to be a oil pump gasket apparently. I want to make sure I get all Honda OEM parts with gaskets. Because there was a guy claiming for the part "dorman-counter-balance-shaft-seal" part 917-006 on advanced auto parts page that his gasket only lasted 24K compared to his other replacement of OEM installment was lasting 100K and beyond before he sold the car . I'm actually kind of confused on what part that is actually is. But given my theory on that. I don't want the TC214.E7

I did more research and it appears there is OEM kit on ebay of all gaskets. It's called "Genuine Honda Cam Crank balance shaft seals and retainer set 1990 to 2002 Accord." Which led to me to yet another GASKET! Which is an oil pump gear gasket. *sigh. There is some confusion here anyways, what I discovered. Is these are the gaskets for the OEM part numbers (located in the timing belt area)

15114-PTO-003
Oil Pump Gear O-Ring

91233-PTO-003
Balance Shaft Seal

06923-POA-306
Engine Balance Shaft Seal Kit

91212-POA-004
Crankshaft Seal

91213-PTO-003
Camshaft Oil Seal


Well, anyways my head kind of hurts trying to figure out all these gaskets. I'm assuming one of them is the camshaft gasket. Hondapartsnow which is confusing rather just calls any part just oil seals. I'm sure I'll figure it out. I think I got all of them except:
Engine Balance Shaft Seal Kit
and Oil Pump Gear O-ring

I think Rear Main Seal -Maybe called also the front seal is one of them. I'll determine this later. I hope the guy selling that seal kit is really an a authentic OEM kit and not a counterfeit.



Thanks for that video on how to remove the seals. I might think it's less risky to use something just so in case I don't make a mistake and scratching the housing or whatever you said. I always thought there was a plastic tool or something that can get it out safer. I might have to look into that.

Yeah, the timing belt markes or TDC marks. Yeah, I prefer a method like that. I think I did hear, people thought they didn't have to mark their old belts with marks. They got it slightly off and the car ran a little rough. I have little experience with this, I might have to get some help or maybe practice somewhere. I'm not sure. Will, see.

I'll probably have to buy that Vmanual then from Eric. I hope it's a detail orientated video. I got a mixture of 6 to 7 different videos on youtube. I'm surprised no one did a 100% complete detail orientated video doing all the seals, all the belts, the tensioners, etc.


I'm still kind of confused on timing marks. I exhausted all my work alone to figure out what gaskets I needed. Some people say you don't need to replace all of them. Some people say you do. Some people will say they will leak if you put a new one in sometimes. I'll figure it out.

Anyways, the bright side is I will have every part ready to go when I have that timing belt cover off. So if I discover I have a wrong part, I don't need order and wait and have my car sit there. So that's why I probably over did it.

 

15114-PTO-003/Oil Pump Gear O-Ring is the seal I'm talking about that drives the rear balance shaft. It may also drive the oil pump, but I always thought the crankshaft drove the oil pump. I remember a moderator on here that was very good found it leaking when he did his timing belt.

For seals on a timing belt job, you have the cam seal, crank seal, front balance shaft seal, and rear balance shaft o-ring. I think Koyo makes the idlers for Honda, so you are good there.

Since the timing belt removal requires removing a lot of items, I am of the opinion to replace items while you are in there. I tried getting fancy to remove the old seals and found a small pocket screwdriver worked to remove. Just puncture the seal like he did in the video where the screwdriver blade can't hit metal of the block surrounding the seal and pop out the old seal out.

I went over the top to ensure the new belt was marked properly. I spun the engine by hand several times to make sure the timing belt marks lined up. Getting the camshaft to TDC and verifying the other marks lined up several times made confident I got the belt on correct.

The ericthecarguy video is 90 minutes long and is very detailed. This video wasn't available at the time for my timing belt and I was able to get the job done.

 

I think the Oil Pump Gear O-Ring is something a shop owner mentioned to me, that apparently had problems with this generation of accords. So I'm glad you brought that up. I will see what I can do when I get that far. I think I found a video in regards to replacing that O-Ring seal.

Yeah, I think I have the best quality parts now. I'm all set. I also got a pick kit. So I think I'll do it like you told me on Eric the Cars video. After I watch his video, I think I'll be set to go. I'll go from there and see how far I can get without needing someones help. ErictheCar guy if I remember correctly also has tips on what should be replaced and what should not be replaced. In terms of pay. If I went the kit route. It would be $140 and if I payed a mechanic the job would be $550. I paid around $375 for parts (maybe a little more) and if I had a mechanic do everything it might get close to $1000. So maybe the job is around $400 (do it myself) or around $875 (in total labor and parts). Or just min parts with a kit $700. It's not a big deal or anything. As long as I know it's done right.

So far so good. I'll make a determination which seals should be replaced or if any of the tensioners. I'm not sure of the hours it will take. But I heard 4 hours for a mechanic. A DIY around 8 hours. Me probably triple that LOL.

So thanks for your input so far. In terms of what could go wrong, I heard someone snapped a water pump bolt on the block. I hope that doesn't happen.