In the process of timing belt replacement on the '94. I just would like to confirm there is normally no bolt in the bracket on the timing belt tensioner - that bracket/bolt location is for locking it in place during install. The only bolt is on the outer bracket that secures the balance shaft belt, yes?

The factory manual shows a bolt there in most every illustration, but there wasn't one there on disassembly.

Thanks!

 

Your description sounds right. There is a bolt that is only used to loosen the tension on the timing belt. It should be removed once you get it installed.

The bolt that is painted white that needs to be removed before you put the car back together.

 

Cool - thanks!

Another question - there is some deflection (3/4" or so) on the greatest length of the timing belt - the length between the cam and crank. There is visible vibration when the car is running. I'm assuming it's because of the length - all the marks on the cam/crank lined up, and the car starts & runs great. Sound reasonable?

Always a great resource - your help is really appreciated.

 

I never ran my car with the covers off, so I don't know.

You should be only able to twist that long length about 1/2 a turn (car not running of course)

 

Cool - it's definitely not that slack.

Thanks!

 

how did you adjust the tension on the belts??,,,,,,,,,you properly lined up balancer belt ( shafts ) ??

 

Hey Justin, how tough was it to remove the bolt from the crankshaft pulley?

1 - Put a socket wrench on the crank pulley.

2 - Loosen the tensioner locking nut (outside of the lower timing cover).

3 - Turn the crank pulley counterclockwise a couple teeth & hold it.
(this should move all the slack over to the rear, where the tensioner can take it up)
3a - If the tensioner spring is kinda limp with age, some people make a hook from a coathanger & pull up a bit to help.

4 - While holding the crank (prevent it from moving back a few degrees); tighten the tensioner lock nut.
4a - With your fingers, you should be able to twist the long-span of the belt about 90-degrees, maybe a bit less, NOT 1/2-turn. Not much different from say a VW timing belt.

5 - Turn the engine forward (counterclockwise) a couple revolutions with the wrench, then re-check the timing marks to see if they jumped.

 

Per the manual - front pulley with the notches lined up, rear pulley with a 74mm device stuck in the hole to lock the pulley in place. Balance shafts are not the issue here, I'm just worried about slack in the timing belt. It sounds like the small amount of slack I have - which is definitely NOT 90 degrees of twist - isn't an issue. Timing is spot on after manually rotating the engine, and again after 5 minutes of running.

 

Impossible. My 600 lb ft impact couldn't do it, and me standing on a 4'
breaker bar with someone on the brakes just resulted in clutch slipping. I ended up taking to a shop down the street and they put 1190 lb ft on it, and that did it.

As it is, I cannot twist the belt 90 degrees. Maybe 60 degrees, so I think it's where it should be. I've done a pile of timing belts before, but I don't recall ever seeing one with such a large span of unsupported length. It's also weird that the tensioners are spring loaded, and essentially non-self-adjusting. Even my XR4Ti (1986) self adjusts. I guess you just need to periodically readjust it? Or is that not required in a normal change interval?

 

I think checking the belt tension might be done when you adjust the valve lash??

I remember checking belt tension on my Integra, whenever I adjusted valve lash, but it never seemed to change over the 100k miles belt-interval.