Tire Rotation and tires?
#1
Tire Rotation and tires?
I have stock michelins which are not directional. Is it better to do the non-directional rotation or should I just switch from front to back?
Also, while I'm on the subject of tires. What tires would you recommend as replacement for OEM? I have no complaints about these tires but at $177 each there must be an equal or better alternative for less. I live in NY and need my tires to have great wet and dry traction and be able to drive on some snow. Definitely don't want to spend more than $150 a tire and the cheaper the better but don't want to compromise handling/ride comfort too much.
Also, while I'm on the subject of tires. What tires would you recommend as replacement for OEM? I have no complaints about these tires but at $177 each there must be an equal or better alternative for less. I live in NY and need my tires to have great wet and dry traction and be able to drive on some snow. Definitely don't want to spend more than $150 a tire and the cheaper the better but don't want to compromise handling/ride comfort too much.
#2
Going from front to back is most important, as the camber and toe angles are different front and back, but usually not side to side. The fact that they are getting regular rotations is the most important.
I got Kumho LX Platinums for $99/ea online, I'm sure you could find them around $70/ea in stock size (mine are for 18" wheels)
I got Kumho LX Platinums for $99/ea online, I'm sure you could find them around $70/ea in stock size (mine are for 18" wheels)
#3
I'd rotate across per the non-directional pattern. But Finch is right, any rotation is better than none.
I've had good luck with Dunlop SP Sport A2, but now it looks like they replaced that tire with Signature something... Michelin is an excellent tire, but they sure are pricey.
I've had good luck with Dunlop SP Sport A2, but now it looks like they replaced that tire with Signature something... Michelin is an excellent tire, but they sure are pricey.
#7
Ditto here on rotation (Jim) and noise (Finch). I replaced mine with Bridgestone's that seem to have a softer rubber compound (rated 60k miles), thus less noise. The Mic's were hard and noisy but lasted a long time - rated 80k miles.
#8
I live in northern NJ. I have Toyo Proxy4's and love them for all-seasons. I am a handling nut and the Scion doesn't like to hold the road in bad weather, but these improved it drastically. The tC has a tendancy to flat spin ..... suspension change coming soon.
With my Accord, I had a set of Yokohama dB S2's and was able to outhandle an AMG C32 at 130 mph ..... that line has been replaced with one of the Advan models. Both of these tires are within your price range and will serve you well. The Toyo's will last a little longer, but also cost more.
Regarding the rotation, I'd follow the manufacturer's recommendations. The ones that you have should be crossed. Both of my recommendations .... and almost all performance oriented tires are omnidirectional, so just front to back rotation.
With my Accord, I had a set of Yokohama dB S2's and was able to outhandle an AMG C32 at 130 mph ..... that line has been replaced with one of the Advan models. Both of these tires are within your price range and will serve you well. The Toyo's will last a little longer, but also cost more.
Regarding the rotation, I'd follow the manufacturer's recommendations. The ones that you have should be crossed. Both of my recommendations .... and almost all performance oriented tires are omnidirectional, so just front to back rotation.
#9
i rotated the non-directional way. just hand tightened as hard as i could with the wrench in the trunk as i don't have a torque wrench. Drove around a couple miles and everything seems good. the tires that are now on the back are almost down to the wear line. I guess they are the original tires from when the car was made? I bought the car certified preowned with 30k and had 2 tires replaced at like 35k because one would not hold air. I didn't really know anything about maintenance then and never rotated and its weird that the tires that are worn out were on the back most of the time....
#10
Likely overtightened them, which can case rotor warpage and broken studs.
I know if I tighten with the wrench I can easily do 100 lb. ft., when the torque specs is really 80 lb. ft. Tighten the bolts evenly until the wrench stops, then give each of them an extra 30-45* of rotation on the lug.
You can get a lever-type torque wrench for like $30 at Sears. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...4978000P?mv=rr
I know if I tighten with the wrench I can easily do 100 lb. ft., when the torque specs is really 80 lb. ft. Tighten the bolts evenly until the wrench stops, then give each of them an extra 30-45* of rotation on the lug.
You can get a lever-type torque wrench for like $30 at Sears. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...4978000P?mv=rr