So I finally figured out what's wrong with my car. It's definitely electrical put test light to battery and it doesn't light up. Even though all accessories turn on and car can crank!

So I had an idea to remove ECU fuse to try and reset computer brain and used test light. With fuse removed now test light lights up on battery! Also CEL is on and it was previously off. Any idea which ground to check where?

Thanks!

 

ECU does not affect battery power supply. Test light had poor ground or poor connection to battery for test.

Key grounds are at thermostat housing behind distributor, rear of intake manifold, kick panel area on driver's side.

good luck

 

A bad connection at the other end of the ground (-) battery cable can also cause the problem (as well as causing the behavior of the test light).

 

ok. Got power to both terminals running to fuse box. I suppose this is also normal?

I used a spark plug tester and no light on spark plugs. Then hooked up test light to distributor cap connectors. No light when cranking. Tested connection to distributor. No light. About to test the connector to the main harness, after that I don't know.

 

Ok. with power on got power from connector off main harness, coil is also getting power and tested good on the Ohms. Distributor is getting power. Not sure which wires to check to see if it's receiving the signal. I know one is power supply 12v and the other will pulse when the car is cranked.

Can someone tell me which connector and which wires to test to verify distributor is receiving signal from ECU? Should yellow/green wire have power with accessories on?

 

What is the problem with your car?

The yel/grn wire is the signal wire. I think the signal from the ECU is to ground that wire.

 

The spark plugs aren't getting power. Ignition coil is sending power to distributor.

I have after market distributor, not sure if it matters. I tested for power yesterday and got power from the green wire but not the yel/green one(Just to clarify I tested both while cranking). I'll test it again to be sure, but does this mean I lost ground?

Edit: Since this is electrical. I should mention that the cars high beams are always on. Also a couple months ago the windshield wipers liked to randomly start running continuously whenever accessories was on. I had to remove the wiper fuse for it to stop, eventually it stopped. I'd hit a bump and the wipers just started going.

Second Update: Tested resistance in yellow/green wire and it pretty much shows 0, sometimes .2 or .3. Anybody know how much resistance the yell/green wire going to distributor should have? Does anyone know where the ground is for this wire?

 

Can anyone tell me what the resistance should be on the yellow/green signaling wire to my distributor? I tested it and it reads either 0.00 or up to 0.3

I guess that means there's an open.

Thanks I appreciate your guys help.

 

Here is some good info on how to check the signal wire.

Part 5 -Honda Igniter, Ignition Coil Test (1.5L, 1.6L, 2.2L, 2.3L)

 

You need to understand your multimeter to test effectively. If you were measuring resistance (what scale?), then a reading of zero is a dead short, assuming you were measuring relative to engine ground (black wire to engine ground). A reading of 0.3 could be ohm, Kohms (ohms/1000), or Mohms (ohms/1000000).

good luck