For the opens you are reading, either you are probing the wrong wires at the PCM, or not using the volt meter properly.

You are losing voltage on the way to the PCM or your ground is not great. You should start the engine and test for voltage from the + battery post to where the + battery cable bolts to the fuse box. Do the same voltage test on the - post to where the - battery cable connects to the body and I engine block. You should get close to 0 volts.

Alternatively, you can run a wire or jumper cable from the - battery post and use that as your ground for the PCM voltage test.

 

I know I was using the multimeter correctly, and I'm fairly certain I was checking the correct wires but maybe I wasn't. I'll do the voltage drop tests you suggested and see what I get and report back.

 

Voltage drop test results are in. Positive side between battery post and fuse box was about 0.06V, so good there. Battery negative post to both the body and the engine were both basically 0V.

 

Bump.

 

Pin B24 is the third clutch pressure switch voltage (blu/wht) wire. The shop manual says to check voltage between pin B24 and B20 (brn/blk). Also check voltage between B24 and B22 (brn/blk). Also use a bare metal bolt as ground.

You can also unplug the 3rd clutch pressure switch and the B connector. See if there is continuity to ground from B24 to a good ground. You can also try this with the pressure switch plugged in.

 

So I went ahead and ran the test on the switch again, but this time I followed the flowchart as if there was battery voltage and went from there. The switch only had a resistance of about 1.29 megohms. It's supposed to be at least 10 megohms. Looks like I'm ordering a new switch.

I'm thinking that battery voltage is considered anything close to 12V. The battery measured 12.3V and the voltage at the PCM connector wires was 11.9V. I think when they mean that there isn't battery voltage they mean something closer to 0V, like a major voltage drop issue.

 

Update: I tested all of the solenoids per the FSM instructions and all of them tested good. My only question is this: the service information states that the resistance across either connector of the CPC solenoid A/B assembly should be "about 5 ohms." I got 6.0-6.2 ohms across each connector. When they mean "about 5 ohms," what would be considered excessive resistance? Could a 20% increase in resistance make a considerable difference in the performance of the solenoid assembly, enough to cause shifting issues?

 

Which solenoids are you testing? Quick look, I see values differently.

If the tests are showing values outside of spec, you might want to grab a replacement - bone yard is prob the cheapest option - just be sure to test the replacement before leaving the yard.

 

I tested the TCC solenoid pair, the CPC solenoid pair, and shift solenoids A and B below the TCC solenoid. Someone reminded me that when testing for resistance, the resistance of the meter leads has to be accounted for, which is generally about 1 ohm. Makes sense to me. So in that case, I'm thinking the CPC solenoid pair is okay after all. Speed sensors seemed fine, but I might double check them. I also replaced the 3rd clutch switch a couple of days ago, but I haven't looked at the 2nd clutch switch as there was no code thrown indicating a problem with it or its circuit. I'll also double check the range sensor but I don't think that it could be causing these issues. Or could it?

 

A quick test for resistance in your leads is to touch them together and read the resistance.