Transmission Toast?
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 40
Transmission Toast?
My 2001 Honda Accord LX 4cyl VTEC Automatic Transmission stopped shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear the other day. This happened out of the blue, no signs of slippage transmission wasnt giving me any trouble signs. I didnt have my code reader on me at the time, so I just pulled the clock/backup fuse to reset CEL and on my way. Car drove fine that evening home about 40 miles.
The next morning car would not shift into 3rd CEL came on D4 flashing but I read the code this time. P1751, mechanical failure on the hydralic circuit. Since this time I have not been able to get the car to shift from 2nd to 3rd.
Here is what I have found out. If I pull the ECU/Cruise Control fuse I can drive the car in 2nd gear and 4th gears only. I believe the car should give me 2nd and 3rd without the ECU fuse but it still isnt giving me 3rd gear.
When driving in 4th gear I could reset the DTC with my code reader and drive fine in 3rd and 4th gears. Shifts flawlessly between the two gears. Until this morning when I tried the same thing but the CEL would come back on in a few seconds, so I read the code P0758, electrical problem in the shift solenoid circuit B. I have already pulled the shift solenoid valve B and tested resistance and operation when 12V is applied, solenoid checked out fine.
So finally, my question is Do you all out there think this is an electrical short I should try and find or am I chasing my tail and know Honda has had an issue with these transmissions and it is toast?
Called my Honda dealership and they said that a TSB is out to not actually replace the solenoids on transmission problems just go ahead and replace the whole transmission at $3900. What a joke!
The next morning car would not shift into 3rd CEL came on D4 flashing but I read the code this time. P1751, mechanical failure on the hydralic circuit. Since this time I have not been able to get the car to shift from 2nd to 3rd.
Here is what I have found out. If I pull the ECU/Cruise Control fuse I can drive the car in 2nd gear and 4th gears only. I believe the car should give me 2nd and 3rd without the ECU fuse but it still isnt giving me 3rd gear.
When driving in 4th gear I could reset the DTC with my code reader and drive fine in 3rd and 4th gears. Shifts flawlessly between the two gears. Until this morning when I tried the same thing but the CEL would come back on in a few seconds, so I read the code P0758, electrical problem in the shift solenoid circuit B. I have already pulled the shift solenoid valve B and tested resistance and operation when 12V is applied, solenoid checked out fine.
So finally, my question is Do you all out there think this is an electrical short I should try and find or am I chasing my tail and know Honda has had an issue with these transmissions and it is toast?
Called my Honda dealership and they said that a TSB is out to not actually replace the solenoids on transmission problems just go ahead and replace the whole transmission at $3900. What a joke!
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 8,725
From: Alaska
I'm not a transmission expert, but seeing as the car is an 01 I am guessing yes it is the transmission. Common problem with those years.
A private transmission rebuilding shop might be able to offer you a better deal, or you could get a tranny from a junkyard but you are running the risk of it blowing up in the near future as well.
A private transmission rebuilding shop might be able to offer you a better deal, or you could get a tranny from a junkyard but you are running the risk of it blowing up in the near future as well.
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Junior Member
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live2 thanks for the quick response, I am afraid of that and will probably be the quick death of this car.
I forgot to add that about a year ago the car was blowing the ECU/Cruise Control fuse repeatively. I finally traced my steps and knew the last thing I touched was the alternator wire harness. I basically just wiggled that wire harness and the car drove fine for the past year.
Well yesterday I thought the two issues might be related and cut into that harness and found a small cut in the black / yellow wire just a few inches from the alternator, this wire is fused by that ECU / Cuise Control circuit. I repaired but it didnt change a thing. I am thinking I should probably take the entire engine electrical wire harness out of the car and inspect.
I forgot to add that about a year ago the car was blowing the ECU/Cruise Control fuse repeatively. I finally traced my steps and knew the last thing I touched was the alternator wire harness. I basically just wiggled that wire harness and the car drove fine for the past year.
Well yesterday I thought the two issues might be related and cut into that harness and found a small cut in the black / yellow wire just a few inches from the alternator, this wire is fused by that ECU / Cuise Control circuit. I repaired but it didnt change a thing. I am thinking I should probably take the entire engine electrical wire harness out of the car and inspect.
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
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Found this with my AllData Subscription, exactly my problem.
Alternator Short Can Cause DTCs and Blown No.6 Fuse
NOTE : This article applies to '98-02 Accord L4s. A short to ground in the BLK/YFL alternator wire could cause the FCM/PCM to set certain DTCs and intermittently blow the No.6 (15A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
Which DTCs set depends on whether the vehicle is a ULFV or not. Here's the low-down:
ULEV Models
^DTC P0141 [secondary heated oxygen sensor (secondary HO2S) (sensor 2) heater circuit malfunction]
^DTC P1166 [air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor (sensor 1) heater circuit malfunction]
^DTC P1167 [air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor (sensor 1) heater system malfunction]
^DTC P1298 [electrical load detector (FLD) circuit high voltage]
^A/T models only: A/T DTC P1768 (problem in the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A circuit)
Non-ULEV Models
^DTC P0135 [primary heated oxygen sensor (primary HO2S) (sensor 1) heater circuit malfunction]
^DTC P0141 [secondary heated oxygen sensor (secondary HO2S) (sensor 2) heater circuit malfunction]
^DTC P1298 [electrical load detector (FLD) circuit high voltage]
^A/T models only: A/T DTC P0753 (problem in shift solenoid valve A circuit)
^A/T models only: A/T DTC P1753 (problem in torque converter clutch solenoid valve circuit) To fix this problem, you need to repair the damaged wire insulation and replace the blown No.6 fuse.
Alternator Short Can Cause DTCs and Blown No.6 Fuse
NOTE : This article applies to '98-02 Accord L4s. A short to ground in the BLK/YFL alternator wire could cause the FCM/PCM to set certain DTCs and intermittently blow the No.6 (15A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
Which DTCs set depends on whether the vehicle is a ULFV or not. Here's the low-down:
ULEV Models
^DTC P0141 [secondary heated oxygen sensor (secondary HO2S) (sensor 2) heater circuit malfunction]
^DTC P1166 [air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor (sensor 1) heater circuit malfunction]
^DTC P1167 [air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor (sensor 1) heater system malfunction]
^DTC P1298 [electrical load detector (FLD) circuit high voltage]
^A/T models only: A/T DTC P1768 (problem in the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A circuit)
Non-ULEV Models
^DTC P0135 [primary heated oxygen sensor (primary HO2S) (sensor 1) heater circuit malfunction]
^DTC P0141 [secondary heated oxygen sensor (secondary HO2S) (sensor 2) heater circuit malfunction]
^DTC P1298 [electrical load detector (FLD) circuit high voltage]
^A/T models only: A/T DTC P0753 (problem in shift solenoid valve A circuit)
^A/T models only: A/T DTC P1753 (problem in torque converter clutch solenoid valve circuit) To fix this problem, you need to repair the damaged wire insulation and replace the blown No.6 fuse.
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 40
Brought it by a transmission shop today and after talking with the mechanic he thinks the problem is the shift solenoid valve B. So he is going to throw a know good solenoid in it and see if that works.
I thought the solenoid would be expensive but just checked my honda dealer $27. So is it possible that the solenoid shaft is stuck open / on but the resistance and acuator still test out good? I now wish I didnt test the thing but just went and bought a new one 5 days ago.
I thought the solenoid would be expensive but just checked my honda dealer $27. So is it possible that the solenoid shaft is stuck open / on but the resistance and acuator still test out good? I now wish I didnt test the thing but just went and bought a new one 5 days ago.
Super Moderator
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 7,099
From: United States
Found this with my AllData Subscription, exactly my problem.
Alternator Short Can Cause DTCs and Blown No.6 Fuse
NOTE : This article applies to '98-02 Accord L4s. A short to ground in the BLK/YFL alternator wire could cause the FCM/PCM to set certain DTCs and intermittently blow the No.6 (15A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
Which DTCs set depends on whether the vehicle is a ULFV or not. Here's the low-down:
ULEV Models
^DTC P0141 [secondary heated oxygen sensor (secondary HO2S) (sensor 2) heater circuit malfunction]
^DTC P1166 [air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor (sensor 1) heater circuit malfunction]
^DTC P1167 [air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor (sensor 1) heater system malfunction]
^DTC P1298 [electrical load detector (FLD) circuit high voltage]
^A/T models only: A/T DTC P1768 (problem in the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A circuit)
Non-ULEV Models
^DTC P0135 [primary heated oxygen sensor (primary HO2S) (sensor 1) heater circuit malfunction]
^DTC P0141 [secondary heated oxygen sensor (secondary HO2S) (sensor 2) heater circuit malfunction]
^DTC P1298 [electrical load detector (FLD) circuit high voltage]
^A/T models only: A/T DTC P0753 (problem in shift solenoid valve A circuit)
^A/T models only: A/T DTC P1753 (problem in torque converter clutch solenoid valve circuit) To fix this problem, you need to repair the damaged wire insulation and replace the blown No.6 fuse.
Alternator Short Can Cause DTCs and Blown No.6 Fuse
NOTE : This article applies to '98-02 Accord L4s. A short to ground in the BLK/YFL alternator wire could cause the FCM/PCM to set certain DTCs and intermittently blow the No.6 (15A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
Which DTCs set depends on whether the vehicle is a ULFV or not. Here's the low-down:
ULEV Models
^DTC P0141 [secondary heated oxygen sensor (secondary HO2S) (sensor 2) heater circuit malfunction]
^DTC P1166 [air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor (sensor 1) heater circuit malfunction]
^DTC P1167 [air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor (sensor 1) heater system malfunction]
^DTC P1298 [electrical load detector (FLD) circuit high voltage]
^A/T models only: A/T DTC P1768 (problem in the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A circuit)
Non-ULEV Models
^DTC P0135 [primary heated oxygen sensor (primary HO2S) (sensor 1) heater circuit malfunction]
^DTC P0141 [secondary heated oxygen sensor (secondary HO2S) (sensor 2) heater circuit malfunction]
^DTC P1298 [electrical load detector (FLD) circuit high voltage]
^A/T models only: A/T DTC P0753 (problem in shift solenoid valve A circuit)
^A/T models only: A/T DTC P1753 (problem in torque converter clutch solenoid valve circuit) To fix this problem, you need to repair the damaged wire insulation and replace the blown No.6 fuse.
www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2986323
Super Moderator
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 7,099
From: United States
The transmission mechanic is guessing. From what you describe in your first post, it sounds more like the transmission. If I understand correctly; for example, even after you reset the ECM/PCM, you were only able to drive like in 2 gears.
There is really no prescribed way to test the ECM/PCM, other than to replace the ECM/PCM with a known good one. You could always open the ECM/PCM and see if you detect any blown resistors, capacitors, etc. or other damage. However, a visual inspection sometimes doesn't reveal anything.
If it is the transmission, you can sometimes find good used transmissions for a few hundred dollars. One of my mechanic friends does it regularly with the 6th generation Accords. He usually gets the transmission for a few hundred dollars.
There is really no prescribed way to test the ECM/PCM, other than to replace the ECM/PCM with a known good one. You could always open the ECM/PCM and see if you detect any blown resistors, capacitors, etc. or other damage. However, a visual inspection sometimes doesn't reveal anything.
If it is the transmission, you can sometimes find good used transmissions for a few hundred dollars. One of my mechanic friends does it regularly with the 6th generation Accords. He usually gets the transmission for a few hundred dollars.
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 40
Yes he is guessing but he did rule out solenoids and he really thinks it is an electrical problem. Although I told him I had already had the solenoids out and tested them all myself.
Under symptom diagnostics for not upshifting to 3rd or 4th with my alldata subscription it lists four possible problems.
1. Shift Solenoid Valve B
2. Shift Valve B Defective
3. Servo Control Valve
4. Shift Fork Shaft Stuck - Check for missing shift fork bolt on the shift fork shaft.
I believe both the Servo Control Valve and the fork shaft bolt are internal so I would just go buy a used transmission if it turns out not to be electrical.
What I dont know is the shift valve B, isnt that just part of the Solenoid? Or is it referencing another internall transmission part.
Under symptom diagnostics for not upshifting to 3rd or 4th with my alldata subscription it lists four possible problems.
1. Shift Solenoid Valve B
2. Shift Valve B Defective
3. Servo Control Valve
4. Shift Fork Shaft Stuck - Check for missing shift fork bolt on the shift fork shaft.
I believe both the Servo Control Valve and the fork shaft bolt are internal so I would just go buy a used transmission if it turns out not to be electrical.
What I dont know is the shift valve B, isnt that just part of the Solenoid? Or is it referencing another internall transmission part.