trouble starting when warm, stalls. '00 3.0L
#1
04-10-2008, 10:27 PM
trouble starting when warm, stalls. '00 3.0L
Hey guys,
GF has a 2000 Accord V6, 120K
Today she had trouble starting it several times. Car was fully warm. sat about 10-15 minutes. When she tried to start it, it stumbled badly. It was trying to keep running, but was idling at super-low RPM (100-300) and died. Crank it again, same thing. Starts, but stumbles badly, and won't stay running more than about 10 seconds. She kept doing this, and fiddling with the accellerator, and eventually, it stayed running.Once it was running,it ran fine the entire time. I met up with her later, and shut the car off, started it up after sitting about 3 minutes, and started no problem. Left it off about 15 minutes, andthe problem reappeared. Fiddled with the gas pedal, kept it running at high-idle (1500-1800rpm) for about 20 seconds, and it was fine.(MIL came on at this point) Drove it for 30 minutes, shut it off, restarted several times, no problem.
Got home, and plugged in scanner. I have aVolkswagen-specific PC-based scan tool (VAG-com), but it also reads OBDII. Ignition on, engine off. Got a P1999 code, which seems to be an invalid code. (i can't find it listed anywhere) My scan tool converted it to a "crank position sensor short to +", but again, I googled it, and can't find that anywhere online, so i'm thinking it was some kind of error. Besides, if the crank position sensor was really faulty, i would expect it to not run at all. Started the engine, and re-read the codes. The P1999 dissapeared on it's own, and now got multiple cylinder misfire, on 1, 2, 4 & 5
Cleared them, and they haven't been back. Now i drove it around some more Shut it off, and restarted several times with varying time delays, and can't get the problem to reappear.
Background: It always idles a little rough, and seems toidle at ratherlow RPM (675), but then again, i don't know what's normal. It hesitates a little, particularly noticable when working in the garage and I attempt to rev the engine. No rain today. This was the first warm day in a while (70F) My first thought was temperature sensor, but they both seem to be reading fine. MAP seems to read fine as well. Both O2's are fairly new (15K miles)plugs are also fairly new, but hesitation & rough idle never improved. Checked for vacuum leaks, found none. Haven't checked fuel pressure, or compression.
Any suggestions?
GF has a 2000 Accord V6, 120K
Today she had trouble starting it several times. Car was fully warm. sat about 10-15 minutes. When she tried to start it, it stumbled badly. It was trying to keep running, but was idling at super-low RPM (100-300) and died. Crank it again, same thing. Starts, but stumbles badly, and won't stay running more than about 10 seconds. She kept doing this, and fiddling with the accellerator, and eventually, it stayed running.Once it was running,it ran fine the entire time. I met up with her later, and shut the car off, started it up after sitting about 3 minutes, and started no problem. Left it off about 15 minutes, andthe problem reappeared. Fiddled with the gas pedal, kept it running at high-idle (1500-1800rpm) for about 20 seconds, and it was fine.(MIL came on at this point) Drove it for 30 minutes, shut it off, restarted several times, no problem.
Got home, and plugged in scanner. I have aVolkswagen-specific PC-based scan tool (VAG-com), but it also reads OBDII. Ignition on, engine off. Got a P1999 code, which seems to be an invalid code. (i can't find it listed anywhere) My scan tool converted it to a "crank position sensor short to +", but again, I googled it, and can't find that anywhere online, so i'm thinking it was some kind of error. Besides, if the crank position sensor was really faulty, i would expect it to not run at all. Started the engine, and re-read the codes. The P1999 dissapeared on it's own, and now got multiple cylinder misfire, on 1, 2, 4 & 5
Cleared them, and they haven't been back. Now i drove it around some more Shut it off, and restarted several times with varying time delays, and can't get the problem to reappear.
Background: It always idles a little rough, and seems toidle at ratherlow RPM (675), but then again, i don't know what's normal. It hesitates a little, particularly noticable when working in the garage and I attempt to rev the engine. No rain today. This was the first warm day in a while (70F) My first thought was temperature sensor, but they both seem to be reading fine. MAP seems to read fine as well. Both O2's are fairly new (15K miles)plugs are also fairly new, but hesitation & rough idle never improved. Checked for vacuum leaks, found none. Haven't checked fuel pressure, or compression.
Any suggestions?
#2
04-10-2008, 11:43 PM
RE: trouble starting when warm, stalls. '00 3.0L
The starting/running problem can be from a lack of fuel or lack of spark. You will have to diagnose the problem. I would take the car to autozone and have them use a generic scanner to ensure that you are getting the right DTCs and post them on here.
Checking the fuel pressure will determine if the problem is related to the fuel supply. When the car doesn't start, turn the key to the II position and try to listen for the fuel pump to turn on for a few seconds (right after you hear the clicks from the main fuel relay). It is a faint whirlling sound coming from the trunk. If you don't hear the fuel pump when the car fails to start, the pump is either on its way out, or its not getting power.
Lack of spark can be caused by multiple items. Has the car had a tune up recently? Spark plugs, air filter, dist. cap, and rotor? Check that the battery connections are clean and secure at all ends. If you have a timing light, you can hook that up when the car isn't starting to see if you are getting adequate spark to the plugs.
A faulty idle air control valve could be another possibility. On earlier generation accords the screen going to them would get clogged with carbon buildup and you could clean them out. I am not sure about the 00 accords though. Cleaning the throttle body may also help.
Checking the fuel pressure will determine if the problem is related to the fuel supply. When the car doesn't start, turn the key to the II position and try to listen for the fuel pump to turn on for a few seconds (right after you hear the clicks from the main fuel relay). It is a faint whirlling sound coming from the trunk. If you don't hear the fuel pump when the car fails to start, the pump is either on its way out, or its not getting power.
Lack of spark can be caused by multiple items. Has the car had a tune up recently? Spark plugs, air filter, dist. cap, and rotor? Check that the battery connections are clean and secure at all ends. If you have a timing light, you can hook that up when the car isn't starting to see if you are getting adequate spark to the plugs.
A faulty idle air control valve could be another possibility. On earlier generation accords the screen going to them would get clogged with carbon buildup and you could clean them out. I am not sure about the 00 accords though. Cleaning the throttle body may also help.
#3
04-11-2008, 09:22 AM
RE: trouble starting when warm, stalls. '00 3.0L
I can't get the codes to reappear. Once i reset them, the car has been running fine. No more codes.
Fuel pump sounds fine, i will check the pressure this weekend. Yes, it had a tune-up recently. No cap & rotor, it's individual coil packs. I'm sure they're fine, because it's not a problem with only one cylinder. The misfire codes were on cyl 1, 2, 4 & 5. . Battery terminals are clean, battery was replaced recently. Can't check timing, again, individual coil packs, and no plug wires.
IAC motor is definitely one area i am going to look at more carefully, because that would explain why it idles a little rough normally.
Fuel pump sounds fine, i will check the pressure this weekend. Yes, it had a tune-up recently. No cap & rotor, it's individual coil packs. I'm sure they're fine, because it's not a problem with only one cylinder. The misfire codes were on cyl 1, 2, 4 & 5. . Battery terminals are clean, battery was replaced recently. Can't check timing, again, individual coil packs, and no plug wires.
IAC motor is definitely one area i am going to look at more carefully, because that would explain why it idles a little rough normally.
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