if you put new plugs in and it started, but ran rough, it sounds like it was flooded. can you remove those plugs again and replace or clean them up very well, then go in the car, hold the gas pedal to the floor and try and start the car while holding? don't let go until the rpm flares to around 2000rpm and try and hold it steady there for 10-15 seconds. after you release the gas pedal then is it steady and ok?


holding the gas pedal to the floor changes the throttle position sensor value to near 5.00v. this signals the the pcm that you are attempting to clear and engine floor condition. the pcm then increases the air/fuel ration from 14.7(air):1(fuel) to ~20(air):1(fuel).
give it a try. good luck!

 

Well, I got it back together.Here's where I'm at for costs;

Head Gasket kit; $250
New head bolts (only found at dealer, total BS); $220
Head job at machine shop; $285 (not too bad I thought for a V-6, I got the hardware, this was labor only)
New valves, seats, guides, etc; $155
Timing belt; $45
New water pump; $65
My buddy who gave me a hand in the final stages; $100 (beer money)

Now here's the big question, retorque the head bolts which would mean to remove the timing belt to get the cams off to do it or just hope for the best? I retorqued an Escort's bolts after 500 miles with no movement, so I'm hoping that the assembly would be fine. Any thoughts?

Also, thanks for all the help with this guys, I thought I was doomed, Dave

 

the head bolts shouldn't need retorqueing ever if you torqued it properly from the beginning.


so, you did the t-belt and bent the valves?