Hi everyone. I have yet another question about my 1989 Accord. I have recently had a problem with my idle. When I have it in park it shakes a little bit but when I put it in drive it shakes so bad I have to put it in neutral sometimes just to keep it running. I have noticed that one of my injecters are wet and I think it might need a new o-ring. Sometimes I do smell gas but not too much. Would that cause it to idle badly? Should replace the o-ring or the whole injecter or should I just raise the idle a little bit. Is it a hard job or is it something I can do myself. Thanxs for any help you can give me!

 

Suggest replacing all the orings, upper and lower on all injectors. Use a good oring lube to insure good seating of all orings.

A leaking injector could cause missing which would cause rough idle. A leaking injector will reduce gas mileage for sure and also represents a fire hazard due to leakdown when you shut down. Slightest spark could start a fire.

There are other reasons for rough idle, but fix the orings and see what happens.

good luck

 

Thanks for the reply. I have looked everywhere for the o-rings and nobody carries them. Any idea where I can get them. What do you suggest I use as a lube if I can find them. I was thinking petroleum jelly?

 

The honda dealership will have them.

Hondadude is a tech and has a DIY writeup about cleaning the EGR ports. He uses silicone grease.

Here is the link to the writeup:

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ad.php?t=28456

 

The upper orings are relatively high presure, (~40 psi to seal the fuel rail) and are most likely to leak. They are thin and dry out. I found all of mine on a 90 Accord (several years ago now) were dry and cracked a bit. These can be matched to any oring kit w/ HNBR orings (green).

The lower orings are low pressure (< 1 atmosphere) seal, relatively heavy and may be reusable based on inspection. I also found that local auto parts wanted $7/oring so I reused.

Repeating use a good oring lube. I like Nylog (a tube will last a lifetime!), but there are others and even petroleum jelly is OK.

The link PAHonda supplied may be worth doing on your car, if EGR ports have never been cleaned.

regards

 

what is the idle set at?? should be around 750-800 rpm in D..
have you checked the motor mounts ??

I do agree with Texas ,, about replace ALL the injector o-rings ,,However i have never seen an external injector leak cause an engine miss,,,
you need to remove the rail and reusing old seal is not a very good idea.. there are 3 seals per injector,,
dealer sells the seals as well as several other import parts stores

 

I went ahead and replaced all the o-rings on all the injecters. It seems to run a little better but the idle is still pretty shaky. How exactly is the right way to adjust the idle? I've just been loosening the two nuts on the throttle cable and pulling back until I heard a slight increase in the motor. Also can the timing be adjusted on these cars via distributer cap? I have replaced all the spark plugs already on this car I just need to get a cap,rotor and wires. Thanxs for all your advise guys!

 

The idle position is not adjusted w/ the throttle cable, and should never be changed. Idle speed is adjusted w/ idle air bleed screw w/ IACV electrically disconnected.

Your description of idle adjustment suggests you adjusted the transmission throttle cable linkage. If that is the case you may experience shift problems. Trans throttle cable is adjusted to just start moving trans throttle lever arm when throttle plate begins to move.

Here's what I would suggest:

1) Clean throttle plate and idle air control valve movement thoroughly w/ throttle body cleaner.

2) Disconnect idle air control valve electrically and place idle air bleed screw (top center of throttle body entrance) in approximately mid-range position

3) Adjust idle speed to 700 +/- 50 rpm.

4) Reconnect IACV and erase CEL by pulling BackUp fuse for 20 secs.

IACV maintains idle speed under load variations and should hold idle around 800 rpm. If idle is below this point, there may be significant vibration.

If this doesn't help, you may need to carefully inspect your motor mounts, front and rear in particular for defects.

Finally, purchase or download a manual. This is your best guide to correct repair procedures.

good luck

 

Thanxs Texashonda for the info. When I first got the car I did have the front motor mount replaced but my mechanic said that the back one by the fire wall would need to be replaced also. He said I would only have a problem with that one when I put it in reverse at high idle(when it's cold) I will definetly get a book for it when I get to the store. But I will try your methods first. You (of course) are right about the cable I adjusted being for the tranny. I noticed it right away so I put it back where it was and it shifted normal again. Can the distributer cap be turned at all? thanxs again for your help.

 

If it's like the 90 Accord, yes the distributor can be adjusted. You should see a slotted bolt holes, allowing adjustment.

good luck