Will not run above 2 k
#1
Will not run above 2 k
Hello to all and Thank you ahead of time! Ok here goes, 2000 accord A/T 2.3l F23 used engine about 90k on it pulled out of a totaled car. Because the old owner said the car was wrecked about 3 years ago. I pulled the engine and checked the bearings, replaced the oil pump, reworked the head aka valve job new vale seals, new water pump, timing belt kit, head gasket and bolts, had the injectors cleaned etc. fuel pump is new the old sending unit was bad so I changed it as waiting the injectors and head to be done. New NGK cap, rotor, wires, and spark plugs. full gasket set. new vtec valve, Ok I think that is all the new parts etc
Ok now the problem. The engine will at start up rev about 2000 to 3000 rpm for a few seconds with you foot on the petal. without about 1100 rpm until warm. But once you rev it up 2000 to 3000 rpm for that few seconds it will drop down to 1500 to 2000 rpm and if you give more petal it will die. If you hold the petal at the same amount after them few seconds it will drop and surge between 1000 and 1500 rpm if you pat the petal it will act to die. If I let it warm up the idle will drop to about 700 to750 rpm but after the rpms will do the same 1500 to 2000 rpm as stated also above.
Things I have tried. Checked the compression about 174 to 176 psi all 4, tested fuel pressure about 58 to 60 psi before the rail, took apart the exhaust ahead of the Cat, opened the gas tank cap, tested the evap system, checked the timing 4 times, moved timing one tooth on the cam both advanced and retarded it, checked lobes on the cam, checked valve lash intake 0.010 and exhaust 0.012, replaced the distributor, cleaned the TB, I also checked the injectors spray and for leaks, tested the injectors ohm and have between 11.9 and 12.1 ohms on all 4, checked the fuel volume about 12 to 15 oz before fuel pump shuts off, ran the car an hour at idle no codes, played with the petal no codes. Will set and idle smooth I am lost and out of hair and ideas! Hehehe Again Thank you ahead of time!
Ok now the problem. The engine will at start up rev about 2000 to 3000 rpm for a few seconds with you foot on the petal. without about 1100 rpm until warm. But once you rev it up 2000 to 3000 rpm for that few seconds it will drop down to 1500 to 2000 rpm and if you give more petal it will die. If you hold the petal at the same amount after them few seconds it will drop and surge between 1000 and 1500 rpm if you pat the petal it will act to die. If I let it warm up the idle will drop to about 700 to750 rpm but after the rpms will do the same 1500 to 2000 rpm as stated also above.
Things I have tried. Checked the compression about 174 to 176 psi all 4, tested fuel pressure about 58 to 60 psi before the rail, took apart the exhaust ahead of the Cat, opened the gas tank cap, tested the evap system, checked the timing 4 times, moved timing one tooth on the cam both advanced and retarded it, checked lobes on the cam, checked valve lash intake 0.010 and exhaust 0.012, replaced the distributor, cleaned the TB, I also checked the injectors spray and for leaks, tested the injectors ohm and have between 11.9 and 12.1 ohms on all 4, checked the fuel volume about 12 to 15 oz before fuel pump shuts off, ran the car an hour at idle no codes, played with the petal no codes. Will set and idle smooth I am lost and out of hair and ideas! Hehehe Again Thank you ahead of time!
#2
It was possible to switch connectors between the map and tps sensors on the 94-97 accords. Not sure if this could happen on the 2000 accord, but an easy check.
The wire colors to the TPS should be grn/blk, red/blk, and yel/blu.
The wire colors to the map should be yel/red, grn/wht, and red/grn.
It is an easy check.
The 94-97 could also have the connector for the injector resistor block switched with another identical connector nearby. Check that the resistor block wires have four identical colored wires (I think red/blk) and one wire color that is different.
The wire colors to the TPS should be grn/blk, red/blk, and yel/blu.
The wire colors to the map should be yel/red, grn/wht, and red/grn.
It is an easy check.
The 94-97 could also have the connector for the injector resistor block switched with another identical connector nearby. Check that the resistor block wires have four identical colored wires (I think red/blk) and one wire color that is different.
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